Mt. Triumph in winter. Photo...

Mt. Triumph in winter. Photo taken from the southeast (from Trappers Peak) on December 23, 2004. The Triumph Glacier is below and the Northeast Ridge is the right skyline. "Arc de Triumph" and "X-Dike Peak" are the two points in front of Triumph at foreground-left.


Click here for a wider angle shot.





So Radek, how would you like to climb that steep upper slope in these conditions? Harder or easier than the steep heather with rock shoes on?

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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Dec 29, 2004 11:43 pm - Voted 10/10

I think we should

do the first winter ascent of the east or north face. As soon as those smears touch down, it would probably be any easy route, like VI WI7 or so.

Klenke

Klenke - Dec 30, 2004 12:27 am - Hasn't voted

Re: I think we should

Why wait? What's a little bit of mixed climbing? Maybe a pendulum from the narrow leftward ice finger to the wider, larger one that starts at mid-face. Come on, you know you got da skeelz.

rpc

rpc - Jan 7, 2005 4:31 pm - Voted 10/10

Railroad spikes

that's the solution. Next time I'm going to bring 5 of those babies + sledge hammer and pound them into them heathery slopes just below the summit for pro (should work snow/no snow conditions).



Nice series Paul. Just saw the whole thing now (what can I say, i'm slow).

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