Mulkila Climber's Log

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markhallam - Jul 10, 2011 3:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1985

Attempt in 1985

In 1985 I set out to attempt 3rd ascent of Mulkila 6507m, with one companion Peter H. We set up Base Camp at 4400m in the northern bank of the Milang Glacier and after 3 acclimatisation/load carrying ascents to set up Camp 1 at 5000m, we set out to make our bid for the summit. After 2 nights at Camp 1, we established Camp 2 at 5800m on southern aspect of Mulkila. We made an unsuccessful bid to reach the difficult south ridge, but were turned back by very steep and hard ice at around 6000m. We returned to our Camp, but then simultaneously a stray monsoon storm swept in and my companion developed cerebral oedema, the first of a series of illnesses. After 3 days storm bound we had a somewhat harrowing descent, followed by an even more harrowing journey across India, as Peter became progressively more ill. Return to the UK was similarly eventful and my poor companion, by now suffering from septicaemia, required a 6 week stay in hospital on our return. Thankfully he made a full recovery.

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