Muratov (Pirin). Summer routes

Overview

Summer view of Muratov Vrah is more modest then winter view but still it’s striking symmetry catches the glance of a climber. For ridges go down from the summit and western ridge splits into two about hundred meters below summit



So there are 5 ridge routes to the summit. South and S-Western ridges are very simple. Three other ridges need some climbing about pD or pD+ grade. Despite these difficulties, climbing parts are very short and could be easily bypassed, so all the routes to Muratov are classified as hiking routes.









Muratov is one of the few tops in Pirin, which can be ascended from Bansko without additional camping in the mountains. Getting by car from Bansko to Vihren hut – a starting point of all routes to Muratov - will take you no more than half an hour and time needed for any of the routes to Muratov with return to the hut does not exceed 10-11 hours at good weather. So you can spend a night in comfortable conditions in Bansko and start from your hotel in the morning. Usually there are no problems with parking at Vihren hut before 8.

















Detailed descriptions of the routes can be found in magnificent bulgarian guidebook by Angela and Kalina Gushev «Hiking traverses. Pirirn», which is available in the bookstore on Tzar Simeon St. in Bansko. There are a lot of photos and schemes in the book so it can be used even without knowing the Bulgarian language.



In his book Angel uses 4 steps grading of hiking routes. In my translation it looks like:
1 grade - normal;
2 grade - normal, some difficult places;
3 grade - some difficult places;
4 grade - many difficult places;




In the following route descriptions I tried to use some combination of Vid Pogachnic recommendations and Angel Gushev grading of hiking routes.

Routes Description

1.Traverse Hvoynati – Muratov
Vihten hat – Vihren S.Ridge (1,5 h, marked red trail) – Hvoynati Vrah - N.Ridge bottom (1 h, unmarked trail) – Muratov Vrah (0,5h, ridge, not protected rock, many difficult places)

Eastern slope and Northern ridge

1.1-1. Muratov Vrah by Eastern slope and Northern ridge
Vihren hat – Muratovo Ezero (1 h, marked blue trail)- N.Ridge bottom (1,2 h, stony, grassy slope, normal) - Muratov Vrah (0,5h, ridge, not protected rock, some difficult places)

N.Western Ridge and Gredaro

2.1-2. Traverse Gredaro – Muratov
Vihren hat – Muratovo Ezero (1 h, marked blue trail) – Vlahinski Pass - Gredaro (2,5 h, stony, grassy slope) - Muratov Vrah (2 h, not protected rock, many difficult places)

S.Western Ridge and Georgiytsa

2.2-2. Traverse Georgiytsa – Muratov
Vihren hat – Muratovo Ezero –Banderiska Porta – Bezimeni Pass (4,5 h, marked blue trail) - Muratov Vrah (No trail – 2 h, slopes, ridge, stones, grass, rocks, normal)

Muratov.East View

3. Muratov by Southern ridge
Vihren hat – Muratovo Ezero –Banderiska Porta (2,5 h, marked blue trail) - Muratov Vrah (1 h, ridge, stones, grass, normal)

4. Muratov by Eastern ridge
Vihren hat – Muratovo Ezero –Banderiska Circus (2 h, marked blue trail) -E.Ridge bottom (0,5 h, slope, stones, grass, normal)– Muratov vrah (1 h, ridge, not protected rock, many difficult places)

Eastern Slope and Northern Ridge Route

Muratov from the path to Muratovo Ezero

Muratovo Ezero

Eastern slope

Northern ridge

Summit view to Vihren

Essential Gear

Standart Gear for mountain hiking routes

External Links

Images

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