Murchison Falls, III, WI 4+

Fourth Pitch, 65m- Joe Josephson’s guide book notes calls this a full pitch. I was on lead, so can’t exactly say what was going on for sure, but my partner claimed he had to simul climb 5 meters for me to reach the station. All I know is that I was pulling on him for about 5 meters in a precarious spot of rotten ice and rocks ledges. This pitch was quite wet in March and is somewhat notorious for published accident reports. Taking the center line, the fall was raining for the first 15m. You get a break at about 35m on a tiny step. Above this step the ice can be quite chandeliery. I saw evidence of at least one bail here (v-thread). To find drier ice, I traversed right over a bulge and was rewarded with somewhat improved ice conditions. This entire pitch is sustained and can be run out if your screws are digging air. Continue straight up and it finally eases just slightly towards the top. Place a short directional in before you traverse right to a rock ledge and bolted station. The left side of Murchison Falls was heavily corniced in March, 2007 and can create quite a bit of spindrift.
Murchison Falls, III, WI 4+, Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park, March 11, 2007


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-2 of 2

CClaude - Mar 13, 2007 8:03 pm - Voted 10/10

Your photo's do....

Murchinsons justice. It is a beautiful locale, eh....

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Mar 13, 2007 8:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Your photo's do....

hey, assume you have done it Chuck? Yeah, but I did not like the route near as much as Polar....and a few others I did the last couple of weeks (Eagle)...but the last pitch gave me a wild ride.....cheers

Viewing: 1-2 of 2