Mushroom Rock, 5.8-5.12c

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Idaho, United States, North America
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
301 Hits
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Mushroom Rock, 5.8-5.12c
Created On: Jun 20, 2017
Last Edited On: Jun 20, 2017


North Face Right, 5.9**
Dow leading North Face Right, 5.9**

Across from the famed (Idaho’s version anyway) Lost Arrow Spire sits No Start Wall.  Despite the boring name, this is actually a significant rock at the City. Its striking vertical south face is almost 200’ tall offering 150’ single pitch routes which is unusual at the City. There is a moderate on the eastern arête of No Start Wall named Pig Arête (5.9**).  If you find yourself climbing Pig Arête, directly east is a small stone named Mushroom Rock that offers a shady north face that contains two bolted short moderates. Mushroom is not near the size of Lost Arrow or No Start, but it is worth a quick jaunt over there if you are looking to hide from the sun.  North Face Left (5.8*) and North Face Right (5.9)** are two moderate sport routes worth doing and as the name suggest are right next to each other. If it is raining, there is a roof feature with vegetation protecting a small alcove just to the right of these routes to wait out any rain. A mixed route on its west face, as you walk by it on the Boxtop trail, is named Mixed Mushroom (5.11**) and looks interesting. Although a shorter bolted route to the left, Sea Biscuit (5.12c***), gets more accolades in the local guidebook.

There are two approaches you can use to reach this area of Center Creek. My preference is to park at the Flaming Rock trail-head and descend past Flaming Rock and Bumble Rock on their western flanks. Continue on the trail north past Bumble Rock and through a fence heading west and eventually past Lady J on the left and just below Lady J you would turn left on a trail cutting back north to in-between No Start Rock and Lost Arrow. But if your destination is Mushroom Rock, just keep hiking on the trail past Lady J down to a T. Turn left and Mushroom Rock is on your right just meters off the trail. This is a small formation for the area. You can also park at the Boxtop Trail-head (campsite #10) and descend past Boxtop and make two creek crossings. Shortly after the 2nd creek crossing, Mushroom Rock (photo) is on your right

Route Description (s)

North and East Face, Routes Listed Left to Right

  • East Side Crack- 50’-5.9*/

  • North Face Left- 50’-5.8*/Simple fully bolted route up the left arete. Dow

  • North Face Right- 50’-5.9**/Much more engaging (then North Face Left) bolted route up the north face of Mushroom. Fun moves making the route worth doing as you pass the rock which is right along the trail to Lost Arrow from Boxtop. Kind of a cool rain proof canopy of trees at the base of these routes if needed. Dow

  • West Face, Routes Listed Left to Right

  • Sea Biscuit- 40’-5.12c***/

  • Mixed Mushroom- 50’-5.11**/

  • Margin Walker- 60’-5.11b**/