My Laundry is one of my favorite multi-pitch routes in Joshua Tree
. It gets overlooked for Breakfast of Champions
which is also located on the north face of South Astrodome, but My Laundry is a much better climb. The fact it has some bird shit on it is probably what repels the urban crowd. But My Laundry is a significantly more sustained route at the grade. They are both located on the iconic north face of the South Astrodome. Perhaps Miramonte’s inclusion of Breakfast of Champions in his “Top 12 Trad Moderates” is the reason why it is more popular. In any case, I was more impressed with My Laundry. It was established in 1976.
The bolted first pitch is the crux lead but the second pitch offers fun trad climbing at the grade as well. The Astrodomes offer one of the better hikes and remote climbing options in Joshua Tree
. South and North Astrodome are two of the taller features in the park. This area is named Wonderland South. One of my favorite areas to climb in all of Joshua Tree is Bighorn Mating Grotto
and the Astrodomes are located along the way.
It is imperative that you park and start at the right trail head or the approach can be much longer.
Drive down paved roads to the Barker Dam trail head. Continue driving out of that paved parking area on a dirt road heading north to a smaller trail head. Hike north along the trail and cut west following the trail past an old homestead. Enter the wash there and continue northwest following the wash until you can see the north face of the South Astrodome on the left. Hike up to the base of the north face. Breakfast of Champions is on the far right hand side of the South Astrodome and My Landry is centered on the left hand side.
The north face of the North Astrodome starts just to the right of Breakfast of Champions.
Route DescriptionMy Laundry, 200+/-, 5.9
1st Pitch- 100’- 5.9/
This is a fantastic fully bolted pitch. I am a crack enthusiast, but thoroughly enjoyed the crimpy exposed traverse off the boulder, angling up to an under cling. When you pull over the broad arête below the under cling, make one more traverse move on micro edges before heading up to it. A few easy moves right past an anchor bring you to a mantel at the grade below another fixed anchor. The topo in Miramonte’s first edition guide does not show this 2nd anchor. There is quite a bit of bird of prey feces and feathers, but nothing that would deter me from repeating the route.
2nd Pitch- 100’- 5.9/
Head up and left up the shallow steep corner with small pro and solid stances. Continue above via several hand cracks/corners to a fixed rap below a tree.
Rap the route with a single 60m rope.
A single rack through C4#2 and a combination of slings and draws. This is a pure north face, so dress accordingly. A single 60m rope gets you down in two quick raps.