My wife leading the 4th class...

My wife leading the 4th class terrain near the top of HREF="">Moscow (Feb. 15, 2004).


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Hammer - Feb 26, 2004 1:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Couldn't resist


I couldn't resist putting up my two favorite routes at Smith after seeing that you started a Red Wall page. I have used Moscow as a training route for huge multipitch routes on Alpine and down at Red Rocks. Matter of fact it was my first trad lead-oh the memories. I am trying to dig up photos that I will have to Scan in. Thanks for your collection of great pics.

COuple of questions: 1) LEngth of rope you used? 2) Where was your belay at?



rpc - Feb 26, 2004 1:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Couldn't resist


Thanks for putting up the routes - great job (very much in line with what I remember of Moscow)! I hope you don't mind that I added in those photos. Feel free to remove any of the ones you don't think belong under "route description section".

We too love those two routes - though I have not done the upper pitches of Super Slab (my wife's led them during a rock course and speaks very highly of the 3rd pitch :). I like Moscow since I think it features a nice mix of "everything" - from dihedral stemming, to liebacking (midway up the upper pitch, short and easy), to some relatively easy off-widthing. And it protects very well AND has clean, solid rock!

We used a 60m rope. We finished the 1st pitch at a boulder/horn with rap slings around it. From there, the second pitch started by going up a steep but short bulge with a finger crack in it - this is where the upper dihedral begins I belive (it's way above the bolts you see atop Peking's finger crack on P1). I'll try to find a photo of the whole route and add in the belay ledge info. on it. I could be wrong, but I think a 50m would've sufficed for the upper pitch as well. We belayed pitch two right above the off-width section - small ledge right before you climb up to the right on 4th class stuff.

By the way, you missed some beer and pizza at the portland SP gathering last night :) Hopefully we'll have another one of those - maybe at the end of the climbing season??

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