Mystery and Imagination-- 5.8, 2 Pitches

Mystery and Imagination-- 5.8, 2 Pitches

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This route offers access to the top of the dome, and if you've spent your day around Echo Canyon and don't want to hike the trail back out, this route is nice for a finish, and then you just walk down slabs or the Summit Trail to reach the parking lot.

If I had to guess, I'd say 99% of people who get on this route only climb the first pitch, which is fine and understandable since the route really is just one pitch to bolted anchors, but there is an option to climb an easier second pitch that finishes at the large tree that also marks the end of the full Cave Crack route. And because of the multi-pitch potential, I have submitted the route as such.

Anyone who can lead the first pitch without taking or falling will probably be fine soloing the second pitch, but I do recommend a light rack since there are some gear placements on the second pitch and you might want a gear anchor after finishing it.

Getting There

Set out on the Summit Trail and then take the Echo Canyon Trail. When that trail reaches a board with lots of information posted, take the purple trail. Motorboat Rock will be to the left, and Practice Slab will be to the right; keep going and then trend left to do some route-finding and scrambling to the base, which is easy to see. There is a huge tree at the base of the wall.

Approach time should be 20-30 minutes.

Route Description

First, make sure you are on the correct route. This face has two bolted lines; the one on the left is an 11a, and the one on the right is the 5.8. It can be a little tricky to tell the two apart because the first bolt on Mystery and Imagination is really high, so it is easy to take a look and think there is only one bolted line.

P1-- 5.8 R, 60'. The R is my addition because if you start from the ground, it is a long way on thin slab to the first bolt, at least 30'. Many do an awkward 4th class scramble up to the right and start from there; it is still a good way from there to the first bolt, but the fall is less deadly and the holds are better. There are three bolts and then bolted anchors; the crux is probably going from B3 to the anchors.

P2-- 5.2 PG 13, 60'. My 5.2 suggestion is just that; I can see people calling it anything from Class 4 to 5.4. There are a few legitimate climbing moves at first, and then it becomes a scramble and finally a hike. When I have led this, I have found placements in questionable rock for small-medium stoppers and Tricams. Belay from the flat area by the huge tree; it's flat enough that you may not need to build an anchor, but I always build one for the added security. Also, please note that although you can sling boulders, you cannot (legally) sling trees for pro or anchors at Enchanted Rock.

Mystery and Imagination
Mystery and Imagination
Mystery and Imagination P2
Mystery and Imagination P2

Essential Gear

At least 4 draws, preferably alpine since you will use them on the second pitch. Tricams and nuts and long slings for protecting the second pitch and building an anchor.