Mystery of the Desert, 5.9

4th-5th Pitches- 50m- 5.9/ By far the most sustained pitch except for the new last pitch. Follow the obvious hand crack up until it shallows out right below the dike above. Either layback or smear up to positive hands on the dike itself and/or one suspect horizontal hand jam up and right. The next gear for me (and important to protect the second) were micro cams in a horizontal slot, knee high, once I got my feet up on the dike. Extend all pieces well if you intend on combining these two pitches. Traverse the dike out left past one bolt to a fixed belay. Continue up through several bolts on 5.8 slab to the sub-summit of Muttonhead with a large tree belay.
Mystery of the Desert, 5.9, Muttonhead, Cochise Stronghold, Arizona, November, 2012


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