Naso di Ghiaccio (Ice Nose)

Naso di Ghiaccio (Ice Nose)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.23000°N / 9.99990°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: ZS, 2
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This page will be kept in honour of Stefan Weber, the SP member known as kletterwebbi,  the former owner of this page, died on May 28th 2004 in Southern France at the age of 37.   

Getting there


Start at the Diavolezza hut and follow the path of the regular route to the Piz Palü. After about one hour the Persgletscher is reached (nearby the Fuorcula d'Arlas). Crossing the glacier direction N brings you to a steep ice / snow field. On most days there should be a good path.


Route Description


Start the route traversing the ice field from left to right brings you at the base of the NNW-butress. Follow the rock of the butress up to a shoulder. There a first snow field starts.

Going up this snow field at the left side of the butress. Great view to the seracs at the n-face of the Piz Cambrena. This brings you at a rock step. Climb this step, UIAA grade 2, may be some difficulties if icy.

Above the step the ice nose starts. This are some pitches of moderate ice climbing up to 45°.

Finally go up the harmless snow fields up to the summit. The right summit is the highest point of the Piz Cambrena.

The route is shown by the red line in the routes overview photo.

 

Essential Gear


Crampons, rope, ice screws, one or two ice axes (depends on your personal possibilities), helmet.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Hut

To climb the Piz Cambrena most people will start from the Berghaus Diavolezza.  For Reservations: Berghaus Diavolezza  Familie Lühr  CH-7504 Pontresina  Tel: +41 81 842 62 05 / Fax +41 81 842 61 58  (200 beds)

Camping

There are two campgrounds at Pontresina, one directly at the crossing Pontresina / St. Moritz about 3 km NW of Pontresina. The other one - Camping Plauns - can be found about 5 km SE of Pontresina below the Morteratsch glacier (direction Bernina Pass).

When to climb

 

Meteo

Meteo Swiss

 

Guidebooks and maps

"Bernina" - N. Canetta, G. Miotti - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI
"Bernina & Bregaglia Selected Climbs" - Lindsay Griffin ISBN: 0900523603
"Berninagruppe" Gebietsführer für Wanderer, Bergsteiger und Hochalpinisten - Walther Flaig   ISBN: 3763324178 Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München
"Clubführer SAC Bündner Alpen band 5" ISBN: 3859021311
"Bernina" sheet 1278 - CNS 1:25.000

In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

A note from the SP staff Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.

Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.

kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.

This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.

The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.