NE summit from saddle

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.82500°N / 123.12°W
Additional Information Route Type: Scramble
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Walk-up, Class 3
Sign the Climber's Log


Attain the saddle by one of 2 approaches:

1) Ascend directly up the steep (~30 degree) scree slope from the SSE. Leave the Marmot Pass trail (#833) near 1580m/5200' or depart from nearby camps. Fast parties will reach the saddle (~1945m/6400') in 1 hr, slower parties in 2 hr.

2) Hike to a point just S of Buckhorn Pass (~1.5 mi N of Marmot Pass on trail #840). Ascend to the SW summit of Buckhorn Mountain (or skirt it just to the S of the summit) and then descend to the saddle, staying close to the ridge (high, to clear the cliffs on the SE face).

Route Description

From the saddle between the 2 summits of Buckhorn Mountain (~1945m, 6400') proceed NE along the ridge. Bypass obstructions on their S (right) sides to minimize exposure. The summit (2114.3m, 6956') is broad and blocky (pillow basalts) with great views. Be careful near the (more exposed) NE and S sides of the summit. The round trip from the saddle is about 1 hr free scrambling, or 2 hr including rope logistics.

Essential Gear

As long as the route is snow-free, most experienced climbers will feel comfortable without a rope or protection. Large or beginning parties might want to bring helmets and a rope for the 2-3 sections (about 20m each) that are moderately exposed, involve some use of the hands, and have some rockfall potential (mostly from party members above).

Miscellaneous Info

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