NE summit from saddle

Page Type
Route
Location:
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Scramble
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Walk-up, Class 3

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NE summit from saddle
Created On: Jun 11, 2002
Last Edited On: Jun 11, 2002

Approach


Attain the saddle by one of 2 approaches:

1) Ascend directly up the steep (~30 degree) scree slope from the SSE. Leave the Marmot Pass trail (#833) near 1580m/5200' or depart from nearby camps. Fast parties will reach the saddle (~1945m/6400') in 1 hr, slower parties in 2 hr.

2) Hike to a point just S of Buckhorn Pass (~1.5 mi N of Marmot Pass on trail #840). Ascend to the SW summit of Buckhorn Mountain (or skirt it just to the S of the summit) and then descend to the saddle, staying close to the ridge (high, to clear the cliffs on the SE face).

Route Description


From the saddle between the 2 summits of Buckhorn Mountain (~1945m, 6400') proceed NE along the ridge. Bypass obstructions on their S (right) sides to minimize exposure. The summit (2114.3m, 6956') is broad and blocky (pillow basalts) with great views. Be careful near the (more exposed) NE and S sides of the summit. The round trip from the saddle is about 1 hr free scrambling, or 2 hr including rope logistics.

Essential Gear


As long as the route is snow-free, most experienced climbers will feel comfortable without a rope or protection. Large or beginning parties might want to bring helmets and a rope for the 2-3 sections (about 20m each) that are moderately exposed, involve some use of the hands, and have some rockfall potential (mostly from party members above).

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.