Getting dropped off the bus in the middle of nowhere at the side of the road at midnight started this adventure perfectly. I climbed this with my friend and fellow SP'er, Matthias, and also Eloy, who also happens to be a very accomplished guide here in Peru.
That night we pitched a quick camp and next morning leisurely made our way to the high base camp. At 1'ish we began our climb along a variation of the West Rib and reached the summit around 6. It was still early enough and cold enough that we could continue down the back side. Def some seracs, rock fall, crevasse danger to be aware of!!! Without a local we prob would not have felt comfortable here but it was by far a more scenic route.
By 9 am we were back at base camp which posed a problem because the next bus back to Arequipa wasn't due to pass till 8 pm that night. So, with the thought that we were going to have to spend the better part of the day just waiting by the side of the road we plodded down. Luckily we managed to hitch a ride with a mine worker and we were able to speed race it to Arequipa in time for dinner that night!!!!
P.S. I live in Arequipa now so if you want more info let me know.
climbed with Bighornmonkey. one of the colder summits of my life. forgot to bring my face mask, it got cold, really cold and i thought my nose was going to fall off. this was followed by a 6 hour wait on the lonely road to Cotahausi, then a 3-hour ride on the top of a truck carrying two bulls to Cotahausi. one of those things where it is cool for the first 5 minutes then it's just misery the next 3 hours.
Nice summit...did not need to rope up for it....quite a change from other peaks we climbed in Peru...up an down in 2 days only....had to wait 6 hours for the first vehicle to pass once we got back to the road.
Reached the summit with 4 peruvian friends. Cold but beautiful bivouac at 5500 metres. Funny busride back to Arequipa. Very hard to do in 2 days, but technical easy.
Climbed as intern with Cotahousi Adventures, recommend for west rib route
All photos and trip report here.
First night at base camp was feeling real good. Unfortunately, I should have never had that soup in Chuquibamba. Had terrible Montezuma's revenge and vomiting all night. Finally stopped in the AM, but the damage was done. I was so dehydrated and worn out that I could barely stumble around without needing to rest and hold on to rocks. Drove back to Arequipa that day and finally felt better the next day.
I reattempted this in December 2007. It snowed every day, except for the nine hours we were climbing one night. The Gods were with us as we had windless, calm climbing conditions. The minute we stepped back into camp, it started snowing again, and the clouds were as thick as soup. I would describe this as a VERY, VERY light version of the DC route on Rainier. You have to get on the rock outcrop or moraine(similar to DC). Once atop that then just follow the slope straight up. On Rainier, there are a lot of crevasses and such to negotiate. Here there is one small crevasse, nothing to worry about. Then there is the slog across the fairly flat top to get to the summit. The altitude starts to get tough. Drink and eat plenty to have energy. It took 5 hours up and 4 hours down, with plenty of stops for pics and breaks, etc.
We camped at the high base camp at the end of the road, went to the first (?) high camp at about 18,200' the next day. We saw Dennis, whom we had met the night before, as he climbed up to the summit (solo) and later coming back down the snow, but didn't see him after that. Dennis, please contact me! We arrived at the summit about 12:30, Friday afternoon, after a little over 7 hours of climbing. There were 3 of us roped together but it wasn't really necessary, and the rope kept getting caught on the penitentes. Other than that, the climbing wasn't hard, just tiring with lots of rest stops. We got back down to high camp at 5:00 and spent the night there, returning to base camp in about 2 1/2 hours the next morning. The weather was great, sunny days and an almost full moon at night, a low of 20 degrees F. at high camp. This climb replaces El Misti as my highest peak. Hopefully will climb Solimana and Chachani next year.
Reached the summit about 6 hours after leaving the tent at 5:15 am. High camp was in a narrow but protected spot at about 18,200. It was a brilliant, bluebird day without much wind and the penitents weren't a problem at all. The descent took about 4 hours and a second night at 18,200'. It was a great climb with Roberto from IncaTours in Arequipa. HIghest summit I've ever been on!
climbed solo. cold and windy near summit. nothing too technical or interesting. but a great mountain in a beautiful, remote area. i was following very fresh footprints the whole climb, must have been yours, hyperbolictans. must have just missed you. the solitude was absolute up there when i climbed. didnt even see an animal after the lake. the summit cap is disappointing after a long slog, then seeing you must continue such a long way for a few more meters elevation.
Local bus dropped us off near Laguna Pallacocha (4750m) near midnight where we camped by for the first night. Made high camp at 5520m the next day. Started off from high camp at 2:35am and finally reached summit 7hrs and 10min later. Plenty penitentes on the way up made for a tiring ascent. Hate it when you thought you have made it up to the summit only to discover that on the humongous summit block, the true high point is still half a km away and only 30meters or so higher.
The view from atop is stupendous, fellow 6000m Andean peaks Solimani, Ampato and Chacani stands high amidst the altiplanic splendour. Climbed with a Arequipeno mountain guide, David.
We climbed this mountain in the beginning of September using ski-mountaineering equipment. We chose a less frequently climbed SW face (very cold until 10am). the access was easy, climb was not too technical, icy fields up to 45 degrees. Nice climb and even nicer skiing. This is a more demanding route than WSW rocky rib. Upper part is never ending with very inclination lowering very slowly. Definitely recomended as a nice volcano!
best to climb from end of May till end of November
Very isolated and cold volcanoe which we climbed from Arequipa.
Our guide did not made it to the summit, take care with these guys!!!