Nevado de Toluca (Xinantecatl) Climber's Log

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Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Feb 3, 2011 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2011

Rim Traverse  Sucess!

Completed the rim traverse with Bighornmonkey. Beautiful views, great conditions, fun climbing! Yannick wrote a trip report of the climb on our blog:


bighornmonkey - Feb 3, 2011 1:30 pm Date Climbed: Feb 2, 2011

Rim traverse  Sucess!

did the rim traverse in perfect conditions, with trail running snow at all! Awesome views. We could see Popo and Izta in a distance, both looked snow-free as well.


logikal - Sep 21, 2009 4:13 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009

First High Altitude Summit  Sucess!

My first mountain above 6000 feet. Hiking to the crater from the entrance gate after only being in mexico for 12 hours was one hell of an introduction to high altitude climbing. I felt like my legs were made of lead. The following day i summited via some talus field on the outer rim.


ncst - Jul 23, 2009 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009

Day trip from Toluca to Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

Although it was pouring rain the night before in Toluca, I had a great sunny hike around the lagunas, reaching the Pico de Fraile as the clouds came rolling in.


paisajeroamericano - Apr 10, 2009 7:03 am Date Climbed: Dec 26, 2008

Cody's 1st 15er  Sucess!

The traverse was quite entertaining. Camped at 3700m the night before with temperatures down to -8 C. Great weather on the mountain though. Climbed from the parking lot up to the saddle, the swung a right and followed the ridge counterclockwise, climbing the 2 highest peaks before shooting down to go check out the lakes on the way back. Tons of people down at the lakes, but nobody up on the ridge. Good times!


Lips74 - Feb 3, 2009 5:00 am Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2009

Route Climbed? Mountain Climbed?

This was an interesting trip wherin we got screwed by our taxi driver and had to walk up the 17 kilometer road. This put us badly off our schedule and camping in the backcountry. Matt and I forced a route through a nightmarish rockfield and summited a subpeak along the ridge around 14,900ft. Matt summited Pico Aguila 15,157ft.


ChristianRodriguez - Sep 28, 2008 1:24 pm Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2006

route climbed  Sucess!

From refuge to the crater's border, wind was intense. so strong by moments impossible to stand up... so a hours later wheater change, clear, fresh and really nice views. We climbed the 3 highest peaks: Aguila, Marquez and Fraile.


ChristianRodriguez - Sep 8, 2008 1:36 am Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2006

Amazing place - views are fantastic  Sucess!

We climbed mostly of peaks surrounding the crater of this huge volcano. sometime with ice, sometimes with snow but mostly of time just rocks. Amazing views of Laguna del Sol (Sun's lagoon) and Laguna de la Luna (Moon's lagoon). Totally clear sky, a little bit cold but nice.


dswink - Mar 9, 2008 7:51 pm Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2007

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

Summitted 1/20/2007, 2/5/2008 and 2/12/2008. This is a fun acclimatization climb.

utclimber - Jan 12, 2008 7:41 pm

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

As I recall, the most difficult part was convincing a taxi driver with my limited Spanish speaking ability to take us up there and wait for us to climb the peak. A nice outing.


MountainHikerCO - Dec 30, 2007 7:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2006

Interesting Place  Sucess!

This was an acclimation climb for Orizaba. We are sure it helped.


emilie - Dec 17, 2007 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2007

Normal - Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

Acclimatization hike for Orizaba. We stayed at a hut and then drove up to the trailhead. Very fun. We went straight up a couloir that looked impossibly steep from across the crater lake but was actually a nice soft scree slope with some good snow. Some light bouldering at the top and a big sense of exposure on the peak. There was some slippery in the snow that made me a bit nervous as we headed down but the rest was uneventful.


Peak_Bagger - Apr 17, 2007 5:13 am Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2002


It was an epic journey of 36hrs in my buddy's old nissan from Madison, WI to Toluca for New Years 2002. But we pased out before midnight beacsue we were so exhausted, then we decided to climb the peak the next day. We drove up to 13000 or so and parked the car, then ate a big meal of mac and cheese and gatorade. I was pretty sick by the time we made summit and by the time I reached the car I was puking a lot and felt pretty sick. I wasn't a smart climber back then, not enough experience. I'll never forget that one , you live and learn.


weeds19 - Jan 13, 2007 7:31 am Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2006

Pico de Fraile  Sucess!

We stayed in the upper hut for two nights and had a great climb of Pico de Fraile. The climb was meant as an acclimatization hike, but it was a worthy objective in its own right. Trip report at

Nyle Walton

Nyle Walton - Aug 10, 2006 3:13 pm Date Climbed: Feb 15, 1957

Easy climb  Sucess!

As a student at Mexico City College (now the University of the Americas) in the good old days, I remember driving from Mexico City westward to the capital of the state of Mexico. The three of us drove as far as we could into the crater whence we hiked uphill through bunch grass and some snow patches in a broad traverse and reached the highest poiint on the rim of the Nevado's wide caldera. After having climbed Popo and Orizaba, I did not regard this volcano climb as any great achievement.


tjbst47 - Mar 30, 2006 3:05 pm Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2006

Nevado de Toluca  Sucess!

I did the tranverse. A dog came with me.

Rick Kent

Rick Kent - Jan 13, 2006 1:33 pm

Route Climbed: Trail and East Rim Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2006  Sucess!

Took a taxi up to the crater with cp0915 and Day Hiker. We started up the trail but then veered off to follow more of the rim on the way to the high point. There's some nice class 3 (or greater) climbing to be had along the way. Snow was present on some of the slopes but the rim was clear.


cp0915 - Jan 11, 2006 11:46 am

Route Climbed: a more direct version of la ruta normal Date Climbed: January 6, 2006  Sucess!

After a failed attempt due to weather in April 2004, I finally got to knock this one off. Followed as much of the crest of the rim above the normal route as I could, finding some surprisingly enjoyable and spicy mixed climbing along the way. Enjoyed the summit with Day Hiker, rwkent and big_g. Good stuff.

Day Hiker

Day Hiker - Jan 11, 2006 1:12 am Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2006

Route Climbed: Trail and East Rim  Sucess!

Started on the trail then hiked up to the east rim and followed it to the summit. The snow on the north side of the volcano, outside the crater, looked intimidating on the drive up to the trailhead, since the ice axe, boots, and crampons were back at the hotel, but it turned out that the route, which is inside the crater, was passable in running shoes. This was my highest summit to date.


big_g - Jan 7, 2006 2:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2006

Route Climbed: Ruta Normal  Sucess!

Phlegmed my way up to the top behind some much more vigorous SPers. Nice scrambling opportunities if you're not too sick to enjoy.

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