Only been climbed once due to the difficulty of access and popularity of it´s larger neighbor, Nevado Salkantay.
The mountain is accessed through the town of Mollepata, off of the Cusco-Abancay road. The trip is a 2 1/2 hour bus ride from Cusco. Buses (7soles) and collectivos (10soles) leave from the stop, "Arcopata" with service to Mollepata. In a collectivo, they may ask you to pay a little more depending on the ammount baggage. From Molepata another hour and a half in taxi or truck takes you to the trailhead at Soray Pampa. A private taxi to Soray Pampa should be around 80 to 100 soles. In the back of a cargo truck it is 15 to 20.
Arrieros should be arranged in Mollepata. The price is 35 soles/day ($12) for an Arriero and 35 soles/day($12) for each mule.
North Face (TD 70° M4 5.7 AI3)
No permits needed.
When to Climb
May - September
Base Camp for the N face is 3 days travel from Mollepata. Day 1 crosses the pass at Japones Pampa (5100m) and finds good camping in Quebrada Sisaypampa (4200m). Day 2 crosses Abra Palqay and arrives at a nice camping location a little ways past base camp for the NE Ridge of Salkantay (3500m). Day 3 is a short hike up the valley to base camp at an awesome system of caves. To access high camp, proceed up the valley ridge opposite Nevado Salkantay and set up camp at the base of the glacier on the North Face.