New route on Kongur (7719m.) from the North side.

On August 09 2004 joint Russia-Latvian team climbed new route on mount Kongur (7719m.). 4 climbers has reached the summit. It took us all in all 30 days after arrival to the Base Camp on the North Side of the mountain. We have established 4 intermediate camps on the altitudes around 5300, 6100, 6800, 7200. The route has few pitches of not very difficult ice, biggest difficulties are the deep snow and, as an effect, avalanche danger. We got one, fortunately survived, but lost a lot of gear, also one passport with China visa and fly ticket. Weather during the climb was unstable, during the summit attempt we had rather low temperatures multiplied with strong wind. Alexey Gorbatenkov even had to turn back on the summit day from the altitude around 7400m. cause of frostbites danger. During the climb we used snow shoes on the flat places, it saves a lot of power. Suggest to publish some more information with pictures a bit later. Alexey Gorbatenkov http://www.mountainguides.ru