"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe
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MoapaPk - Sep 12, 2009 6:09 pm - Voted 10/10
thanksI don't know a thing about this area, but thanks for providing such detail and informative route pictures.
Jurgen - Sep 13, 2009 3:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: thanksYou're welcome, that is what's summitpost is all about isn't? Cheers, Jurgen
kamil - Sep 19, 2009 4:25 pm - Voted 10/10
shame about boltsAnother good description from you and congrats on the climb.
Shame about bolting the route, I can see from the pics there are perfect cracks for trad pro, you're right that must've lost that adventure feeling about it :(
gr
Kamil
Jurgen - Sep 20, 2009 2:54 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: shame about boltsThanks Kamil! There's enough place to put your own gear as you've noticed, so the overdone it. Re-bolting is oke, but only limited. For instance the belays.
Groet, Jurgen
Bart - Nov 3, 2009 8:31 am - Voted 10/10
BoltsWhatever one thinks about the bolting of this route, it might be useful to know that while the Schweizplaisir guidebook recommends you take only 1 cam, this will result in very unpleasant surprises for those expecting a 'gut' equipped route as the book indicates. Yes there are some bolts, but with only 1 cam as added pro you are looking at (very) long runouts on virtually every pitch. Take about 4 and you should be able to comfortably protect the route up to 'gut' standards. As others have noted, the granite is excellent and there are many opportunities for placing gear. Enjoy.
Jurgen - Nov 5, 2009 4:30 am - Hasn't voted
Re: BoltsIsn't the number '1' in the Schweizplaisir guidebooks for the size, instead of the amounth?