Nix für Suderer

Page Type
Route
Location:
Niederoesterreich, Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Sport Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
UIAA VI
Rock Difficulty:
5.10a (YDS)

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Page By:
Nix für Suderer
Created On: Sep 9, 2005
Last Edited On: Feb 18, 2006

Approach

The new route "Nix für Suderer" (approx. translated: "nothing for whiners" :-) ) leads through Klobenwand in the valley "Großes Höllental". If you drive the street from Hirschwang to Schwarzau, pass the parking lots at Weichtalhaus, pass the tunnel and the valley-exit of "Großes Höllental", and park the car at a parking lot on the left side approximately 100 to 150m thereafter. From there go into "Großes Höllental" (the green fence can be passed at the left side of the big closed gate, where a tiny door is). Walk up the gravel road approximately 8 to 10 minutes, where it becomes flat again, until you see a small track on the right side. The track leads you to the foot of the wall through scree. The entry of the route is a few meters before the highest point of the track, near a conspicuous rockneedle (approx. 20 minutes from the car).

Route Description

This route is quite new, first ascent by Alfred Riedl in July 2005. The line leads to the peak of the "Vordere Klobenwand" in 7 pitches, crossing 3 times over an old easier route named "Gaisbauer-Jug". Finding it is easy: Always follow the golden bolts. :) If you are at a bolt with the usual silver color, then you are wrong. A good topo of the route is here.

The climber is in the...The fantastic 4th pitch
The whole route can be called...The crux
Take care in the second pitch...Take care in the 2nd pitch

Essential Gear

12 quickdraws. No nuts necessary, currently enough bolts.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.