Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.6 |
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Approach
This is probably the best 5.6 pitch in the park. The route is located on the parking lot side of Parlking Lot Rock (near northern end of it). The route follows a prominent chimney to the top of the Parking Lot Rock. The chimney is clearly visible from the parking area - see photo.
From the parking lot, follow the trail toward the (left side of) Parking Lot Rock. At the base, scramble up a flake with a mid-sized tree growing in it and up to a "balcony" about 20 feet above the ground. Dealy of Game route starts directly above you. Move right to the edge of the balcony and scramble another 20 or so feet higher to the base of the chimney.
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Route Description
The route starts at a tunnel at the base of the prominent chimney. Move through the tunnel (as opposed to climbing over the flake) and step up. Protection is good in side cracks. Stemming and a fial akward mantle move bring you to the beginning of the dihedral (inside the chimney). Move up the dihedral on bomber jugs to the notch at the top of the formation. Belay on gear at the top.
Descent:
Belay each other down to the (climber's) left toward the bolted anchor atop Dealy of Game. Rap with two 60 m ropes (not sure if two 50m are sufficient - probably). The L. Davis book suggests moving right from the top of the route to reach the bolted rap station atop Batwings (did not try this option as it seemed less obvious).
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Essential Gear
A rack consisting of small to medium sizes (cams and nuts). Nothing large was needed. Drag a second 60 m rope for the rap down.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.