Normal ascent (S-Ridge / SW-face)

Normal ascent (S-Ridge / SW-face)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.05001°N / 11.83571°E
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA II+ or III- (short passages)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 6
Sign the Climber's Log


S-Ridge is the normal ascent to the top of Zsigmondyspitze. This mountain is a sheer climbing summit, so it is an easy climb in UIAA II (other sources call some passages III-).
The climb has good rock quality and is very pleasant. From Berliner Hütte it is a nice tour and you can be back at the hut in afternoon, prepairing you for another climb in the next day or descending to the valley (this coasts you another 2 hours until Breitlahner.
For good climbers a rope isn't really essential, but for all others it gives a good feeling ;-)
The route uses partially the South ridge, sidesteps however wide in the SW-face and in the last meters in the East wall too.
The S-Ridge is climbable directly too, but here you find difficulties until UIAA V-.

Getting There

Starting point is Feldscharte (2909 m) between Zsigmondysoitze and Roßköpfe. There you go from Schwarzsee in ca. 1 hour, first in the marked route to Melkerscharte (2814 m), passing another little lake. About 100 m under Melkerscharte you go up at right over scree in direction Feldscharte.

Schwarzsee you'll reach in 1.5 hours from the comfortable Berliner Hütte situated in 2042 m, one of the most remarkable huts of the Eastern Alps.
To this hut you can hike in 2.5 - 3 hours from Hotel Breitlahner. Coming from Innsbruck on the motor-way to Munich, you go through Zillertal-valley at Mayerhofen and then to Ginzling. From there leads a little street to Breitlahner with big parking place (parking fee). Here starts the walk to Berliner Hütte.

Route Description

Some meters below Feldscharte you can ascend keeping first left and then right to the first platform in S-Ridge without difficulties (you can reach this point directly from Feldscharte too, but the difficulty is much higher, about UIAA IV+).
Now you climb in good rock one pitch, traverse the next gendarme on his left side and come back at the ridge to a platform under a great rupture.
Here begins a long level transverse into the SW-face. It's predominantly walking terrain, interrupted by a steep and exposed slab. Here (and in some other points of this ascent) you'll find good bolts.
You transverse about 100 m at left. Then you reach a moderate increasing spacious ledge which leads you back to the ridge (look at the picture!).
Now you follow the ridge to the steep summit tower. Here you can cross over at the east wall (the so called Floitentritt) and climb through a channel with big blocks to the summit.
For descent you use the same way.
The time for ascent from Feldscharte is depending from your belaying needs. A good climber goes the route without belaying in < 1 hour, with complete belay you need laxly 2.5 hours, analogous is the time need for descent.

Essential Gear

You'll need the usual climbing gear for easy climbs. There is no need of ice-tools under normal conditions (only rock).

External Links

If I find an interesting external link to Zsigmondyspitze I will post it here!



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