Normal (East Belukha) from Russia

Normal (East Belukha) from Russia

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 49.80875°N / 86.58909°E
Additional Information Route Type: Easy Snow/Ice/Rock climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Expedition
Additional Information Difficulty: PD
Sign the Climber's Log


First you have fly to Moscow, then take some local flight to Barnaul (5 hours from Moscow).
From Barnaul, by car 1100 km (500 km bad road without coverage) to the settlement Tungur, located on the bank of majestic Katun river.
In Tungur the horseback part of the route begins. Horses and horse guides are easily found in Tungur - this is the only way locals earn money (which they drink away at the same moment).
Normally, there two or maximum three days of riding to Akkem lake - the point from where the trek to the Mountain begins (1 day to the Tomsk bivouac).
Then begins the route itself.

Route Description

The route begins from a settlement Tungur, which it is possible to reach by a car from Barnaul or Novosibirsk (distance is about 1000 kms, half by a road with an earth covering). In Tungur you can rent the horses and in 2-3 days reach the lake of Akkem.
From the lake move up by a track which is on left (by a course of movement) slope of the valley. Getting on a glacier to continue movement by its left part. The glacier turns on the left, the track goes by its most left part (there is an icefall on the right).
After left turn move to the small hut which is located left side moraine it is Tomsky bivouac ( From Akkem lake 8-10 hours).
On the next day, early in the morning begin moving up by a glacier ("Arbuz" should be passed on the right) and in 1,5 - 2 hours come to the beginning of the ice slope of the Delane pass.
Then by an ice slope of an average steepness (300m, 40 degrees, belaying on the icescrews) climb the pass (1,5-2 hours). Getting down from the Delane pass come to a glacier (attention! many crevices) cross it and by not steep snow slope begin to the place of the base camp common name of which is Berel Camp.
Usually everybody use camp on the first flat place of a slope - wide snow seddle to the right from the Berel pass (from the Delane pass 1,5-2 hours). From this place up to the summit of Belukha 6-8 hours of climbing so to move the camp higher, as I think, there is no reasons.

It is recommended to begin the ascension very early - at 2-3 o'clock in the morning for the reason be in time to pass the lower part of a route by a firm, frozen snow.
From the BC travers right snow slope (danger of avalanches). Gaining 200m of altitude come to the right turn of a glacier and continue moving in the direction of the beginning of the Berel rocky crest. By this crest 10-12 pitches of easy climbing (45-60 degrees, I-II, the rocks can be icy, belaying on the pitons) climb the wide snow shoulder.
By it walk 150m without gain of height then come to a snow-ice slope of averege steepness (100m, 50 degrees, icescrews) of the summit dome of East Belukha. Climb up to the ridge (attention, carnices!) turn to the right and in several minutes you are on The Summit (Photo).
Descent by a way of ascent.

Essential Gear

Rope, crampones, Ice screws, ice-axes, couple of pitons, hummer, all necessary camping gear.

Miscellaneous Info

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