Normal (from Luna Saddle)

Page Type
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Scramble, Technical Rock and Steep Glacier
Time Required:
A long day
Mixed Class III (rock/snow)

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Normal (from Luna Saddle)
Created On: Feb 7, 2004
Last Edited On: Feb 7, 2004


Once at Luna Saddle you can begin by climbing onto a ridge of rock that runs from Luna to Fury like a broken spine. It requires much traversing, downclimbing and climbing and ends by dumping you out a scree-filled couloir onto steep heather slopes near Fury.

Route Description

Once you have traversed the heather slopes, you will look for a smallish glacier which rises steeply towards what looks like a dead-end. This is not the gnarled monster of a glacier that you see ahead of you (and below you) for most of the climb, thank God. Once you have put on your crampons and roped up, you can climb up towards the summit on the narrow glacier until the bergschrund. Go around the 'schrund on the left and mount the final super-steep glacier to the summit. We used a lot of pro' on this section because the run-out was not very friendly looking. The summit is a knife of snow that leads to some piled boulders. Hidden in the boulders is the summit log (only four other people had summited Fury the year we did it).

Essential Gear

Everything you own plus ice screws (good for the final glacier) and pickets for setting up 'pro on the downclimb of the glaciers when you are super tired. Helmet, crampons and axe are more than required. Water filter or iodine because there is running water on the route and we got very thirsty being out from 5 am to 8:30 pm. Rope, harness, one bivi' sack in case and who knows what else we schlepped up there. But I never felt like it was a waste. You are literally days from rescue so it would suck to not have everything you might need.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.