Normal route from Rif. Gnifetti
Page Type Route
Location: Valle d'Aosta/Piemonte-Vercelli, Italy, Europe
Route Type: Basic snow, glacier climb, ice climb
Time Required: Most of a day
Difficulty: Walk-up and steep flank 30-40°
Route Quality: 2 Votes
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Table of Contents
Approach
You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.
You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.
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Route Description
From Rif. Gnifetti you cross against Lysglacier and ascent to the Lys pass, 4248m.
When you are about 100 metres below the Lys pass you turn right to the steep summit of Corno Nero. To the foothills of a mountain you cross a glacier and come below the upper steep part of the route.
The upper part is very steep around 30-40°. When you climb this steep point you come to the small ridge. At the summit itself, a black rock of a few meters (3-5 m) is sticking out. On the top of this rock is not a lot of place.
Essential Gear
Rope, helmet, ice pick, crampons.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Normal route from Rif. Gnifetti
Route
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