Normal Route from the South

Page Type
Route
Location:
Trentino, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Scrambling
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
UIAA II

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Normal Route from the South
Created On: Aug 5, 2005
Last Edited On: Feb 18, 2006

Approach

From Rifugio Brentei, 2175 m, take trail 323 for Rifugio Alimonta. Go past the fork for Sentiero SOSAT (305b). The trail soon reaches the base of the twin towers named Gemelli. Continue in the narrow valley to the left (the right branch leads to Rifugio Alimonta) and reach a circular depression filled with debris. To the left is the rock band under Cima Mandron where the route starts. Up until here, approximately 300 m elevation gain.

Route Description

Climb on scree to reach the chimney that cuts the rock band rising from right to left. In the early season the chimney may hold snow, but is otherwise filled with loose rubble. Climb the rocks on the left of the chimney and continue to the top of the scree band above it.

Cross right at the base of the rock wall following traces of passage and cairns until you reach the gully that divides Cima Mandron from Cima Brenta Occidentale (the west summit of Cima Brenta). Here is the start of a large grey ramp with two characteristic vertical black stripes. Climb the ramp and the following scree ramp to the ledge that crosses the upper south face of Cima Brenta.

Traverse right along the ledge until it crosses the wide amphitheater that culminates in the ridge between the western and eastern summits. Climb up the slope angling right to reach either the ridge between the summits or the south ridge (many options here) and eventually the main summit marked by a cross.

Elevation gain: 650 m; from Rifugio Brentei, 1000 m. First ascent in 1882 by Compton, de Falkner, Dallagiacoma, and Nicolussi.

Descend via the normal route from the north or by retracing your steps.

Essential Gear

Standard climbing equipment, including helmet. Bring a rope for peace of mind. Ice axe and crampons may be useful early in the season.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.







Normal Route from the South

Route
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Geography

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Parents

Cima BrentaRoutes