If comming from the Albert Premier Hut, cross the Col du Tour or Col Superior du Tour towards the Trient Glacier. If comming from the Cabine du Trient (Swiss side) bear straight to the north face base. once on the Trient Glacier, approaching the face, looking for a good place to cross the rimaye. The Tete Blanche is an evident slope in the south west side of Le Trient Glacier.
For a choice of which Col to cross (Du Tour or Superior du Tour ) please ask at the Hut or in Chamonix at Maison de la Montagne
. ( telephone +33 (0)450532208)
After crossing the rimaye, go up the snow/ slope face to the top. Descend via the Col Blanc and the Glacier du Tour to get back to the Albert 1er Hut, If going back to the Cabine du Trient, after reaching the Glacier du Tour cross the Col du Tour or the Col Superior du Tour, whatever is in best shape or condition.
Or continue to Le Petit Fourche
, to complete the Tete Blanche-Petit Fourche combination.
If good conditions, just walking axe and rope, or a couple of technical axes. Please note that average climbers can complete the face with a mountaineering axe or piolet.
If icy conditions are present, is better to use two ice tools and some screws to have a running belay or regular belay, if team ability requires it.
Glaciaer walking equipement, crampons, prusiks, etc,
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