Normal route via the Castillo Climber's Log

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dgrah - Nov 23, 2016 4:36 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2016

Normal with variation  Sucess!

I was very happy to summit Chimborazo 9 November 2016 with Andes Climbing (

Although I am a relatively fit and able 57 year old, it had been close to 20 years since I had done much glacier travel or high altitude climbs. Andes Climbing put together an effective acclimatization program for me of 4 summits prior to Chimborazo (Pasochoa, Corazon, Illiniza Norte, and Cayambe). In addition, they put together excellent rest day and after climb activities that made sure I saw and enjoyed more of Ecuador that just the peaks.

The Chimborazo climb started the afternoon of 8 November with a pleasant hike north and then east on good trail from where we parked at the Carrel refuge to high camp at about 17,400 feet. The camp was on the ridge about 1 mile northeast of the Carrel refuge. Weather was cool with clouds obscuring the summit. After sunset the clouds cleared and it remained clear until on the descent.

My great guide, Ivan, and I woke at 11 and started our climb a little before midnight. The trail continued along the south side of the ridge north of the Whymper refuge and met, I believe, the Normal Route above El Castillo. This trail completely avoided The Corridor and, although a little longer than the Normal Route, was on easy trail - except for the altitude.

The route continued up the ridge mostly on use trail but occasionally on rock with one 10 foot section of Class 3. After a while the rock ended and snow and ice began and, in the dark, it was a long snow slog up what seemed to be a constant slope all the way to the Veintimilla Summit which we achieved about 430 am. After a short break at the Veintimilla Summit we continued and reached the Whymper Summit at about 515 am, just as it was getting light.

The view from the summit was spectacular with all the major volcanoes in Ecuador visible. After a half hour on the summit, we headed down the route we came up and reached high camp at about 840am. As we descended we went slower and slower because I was getting tired and my knees hurt. It took less than an hour from high camp back to the car. It was a great climb and the achievement of a goal I have had for many years.

Tracks of the climb are:
Car to high camp -
Summit -
High camp back to car -

jhartough - Nov 27, 2015 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Nov 26, 2015

Normal Route  Sucess!

Left Carrel refugio at 10pm on Nov. 25, 2015 with a full moon in a clear sky with great weather and perfect snow/ice conditions. Alex (USA), Christian (Germany), myself and guides Manuel and Segundo arrived at Veintimilla's summit in about 7 hours. Great views of Cotopaxi, Illinizas, Antisana, Cayambe and Sangay. We continued up to Whymper 6,310 m, through the same snow and fragile ice formations covering both summits. We made our descent by the same route. Rock fall danger from El Castillo to "el corredor". Some wind in parts of ascent, but nothing more than 10-20mph. No falls and only one small avalanche observed. We were the only 5 on the mountain that day.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Oct 23, 2009 6:23 pm Date Climbed: May 17, 2006

Route Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!

Climbed with great weather and perfect snow/ice conditions. Edgar, Ran (Israel) and I got to Veintimilla's summit in about 4 hours from the refuge. Great views of Cotopaxi, Illinizas, Antisana, Cayambe and Sangay.

We continued up to Whymper 6,310 m (20,561 ft), this time with soft knee deep snow. Got to the top in a good time, but clouds rolled in pretty fast.

We made our descent by the same route. Rock fall danger from El Castillo to "el corredor".


mdostby - Oct 29, 2008 5:00 pm

I will return

Did not summit. Got AMS at aprox 20,000 foot.


FloEbi - Jun 18, 2007 9:22 am Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2007

normal route  Sucess!

great trip

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