Normal route (with access variations)

Page Type
Ticino/Graubünden, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Scramble, a few steps gr. II
Time Required:
Most of a day

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Normal route (with access variations)
Created On: Jan 2, 2005
Last Edited On: Jan 2, 2005


You can start from Cava hut, from Osogna or from Landarenca.

From Cava hut (2066 m), descend in direction of Alpe di Sceng di Sopra until 1800 m circa. Traverse in direction of Torent Basso's NE-ridge and climb steeply to P. 1874 (there's a fixed rope). Continue the traverse until you can turn right and climb first a steep slope, which leads into a couloir. Climb this couloir (often hard snow or ice) until P. 2665 (Bocchetta del Torrone pass).

From Osogna (274 m), several paths lead to Pönt, at the entrance of beautiful Val d'Osogna. This long valley has a good and marked path with several beautiful stairs. Passing Merisciolo, Voisc and Gösro, you'll finally reach the beautiful plain of Alpe d'Örz (2087 m). Traverse the plain in direction NE and enter a long couloir which leads to Bocchetta Alta pass (2535 m). This couloir often has firmly packed snow all summer long. In this case, crampons may be necessary to safely reach the pass.

From Landarenca (1254 m), a good and marked path leads to Alpe Piöv di Fuori. In summer, it may be possible to buy milk or cheese here. Leave the marked route to Cava hut and take the decent path to Piöv di Dent (ruins). It remains only to climb the large, open slope in direction of Bocchetta Alta pass. You don't have to reach this pass, so turn slightly towards NW, where a steeper slope leads in direction of the summit.

Route Description

From Bocchetta del Torrone pass:
To avoid the first sections of the summit's W-ridge, traverse into the southern flank of the ridge (there's some kind of a path and initially some cairns) until it becomes possible to return to the ridge. Follow the ridge for a while, until it becomes difficult again. Traverse again into the S-flank, where a small path leads to a saddle in the S-ridge. Climb the S-flank (various routes possible, some cairns, some steps gr. II) until you're back on the W-ridge, which leads without difficulty to the summit.

From Bocchetta Alta or Landarenca:
From Bocchetta Alta, turn P. 2769 on the right (E) and enter the steep slope which is directly accessible from Landarenca, as described above. Climbing this tiring slope brings you to the saddle in the S-ridge, mentioned above.

Essential Gear

In good conditions: Normal hiking gear, sturdy boots. To be on the safe side, take crampons or an iceaxe, unless you're starting from Landarenca.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Normal route (with access variations)

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