normal route

normal route

Page Type: Route
Route Type: classical normal climb
Time Required: One to two days
Difficulty: UIAA II, mostly walk-up


Approach to Rufugio Venezia see main page!

overview picture

Route Description 1) Ball ledge

From the hut follow the path to Forcella Val d'Arcia to gain some height. After about 10 min red spots lead to the left along easy rocks to the beginning of the "Ball ledge". This ledge is easy to follow but very "airy". At the most famous part, the "Passo del Gatto", you have the choice either to creep or to climb on the outside very exposed. Normally a fixed rope helps over the next exposed step. The layer ends at the bottom of a huge steep slope of rubblestones.

2) upper part

Follow a path towards a rocky part where some layers of rock have to be climbed to reach the upper hollow where there used to be the glacier. Perhaps there is some snow left. The marked route leads to the left to the saddle between Spalla Sud and the summit. Climb the ridge easily to the summit.

Time from hut to summit is about 4-5 h.

Descend on the same route.

Essential Gear

For the normal route no special gear is necessary. On the recomended and on other maps there is a big glacier shown on the normal route. But this does not exist any more. So you can leave your crampos at home.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.