Normal route

Page Type
Vaud/Valais, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Glacier Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Normal route
Created On: Jul 2, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 30, 2004


With the use of the cable car of the Sex Rouge, the summit is an easy one day's target. By good conditions, the climb is easy and almost without danger.
If the snow is icy,be careful during the descent from the little collar on the Diablerets glacier.
By fog, don't climb on the Diablerets : you can't benefit from the fantastic views and on the flat Diablerets glacier you can lose your way (danger ++)


Start point is Sex Rouge

From the village Les Diablerets take the road to the Pillon Collar (1546 m). Park. The cable car brings you up to the Sex Rouge (2971 m).

Route Description

From the Sex Rouge follow the crest down in southern direction along the ski slopes. You reach a collar. Here joins the cable route coming from Pierredar Hut through the Creux de Champ.

From the collar, continue to follow the crest up to the Dome of the Diablerets (3005 m). Follow the Dome, climb down some rocks. You arrive to a little collar. From here you must climb down on the Diablerets Glacier. The slope is a little steep (40°) on 50 m.
You have now to cross the glacier in SW direction (some big crevasses can be avoided easily).

I don't recommend to walk straight to the summit. Walk first to the southern summit, on your left (a few meters with 30° slope): from here you have a fantastic plunging view on the Pas de la Cheville 1200 m lower. Don't come back on your steps but follow the crest in NE direction and you reach the principal summit with his cross.

To get back to the Sex Rouge follow the flat Diablerets glacier in NE dirction and you reach your ascent tracks.

Essential Gear

Gear for glacier climb is necessary