Normal route

Approach

Start this climb from the Bortelhütte

Route Description

The normal route follows the W-slope and the WSW-ridge and includes a 1100 m climb from the Bortelhütte. The nature of this climb is walking (over moraines and glacier), and rock scrambling over the steep WSW-ridge. Early in the season there is much snow on the slopes to the Bortelgletscher (in early July above 2500m). The view from the Bortelhorn is excellent and covers the mountains of the Pennine, Bernese, and Lepontine Alps .

First follow the path from the Bortelhütte to the Bortellicke (signposted). Leave the path at about 2500m and walk E over rock, scree and snow to the Bortelgletscher. The harmless (firn) Bortelgletscher is reached at 2700m. Follow the Bortelgletscher (not to close to the W-face in order to avoid falling rocks) in SE direction directly to the small saddle at pt.2986 (See the LKS map). The maximum slope of the firn is 35 degrees. There is place for a material depot at the small saddle (pt.2986). Then climb the SW ridge to the summit (3193m) over good quality rock and some scree. The route involves a track (mainly on the S-site of the ridge) and some rock scrambling (maximum grade II). Early in the season there can be some steep snow fields (maximum 60 degrees) on the upper part of the SW ridge, which require an ice axe for safe passage. The summit carries a cairn and at on the W-shoulder there is an iron cross.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons are needed on the Bortel Gletscher. An ice axe can also be useful on the summit ridge early in the season (June and July)

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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