Normal Route

Page Type
Route
Location:
Valais, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Snow/glacier climb with one rock passage
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
F/PD

Route Quality: 8 Votes

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Normal Route
Created On: Jun 2, 2005
Last Edited On: Jun 2, 2005

Approach


Starting from Randa (some 7km from Zermatt), some parking spaces and train station there...
6 hours of walk to the Dom Hutte, easy walking, higher some rocky passages with fixed ropes. You can take a bed in Dom Hutte or in a base camp (15minutes above Dom hutte - 2940m) - 8 spaces for tents

Route Description


Starting aroun 3:00Am, walking the Festigletscher on its left side to a rocky passage called Festijoch (1:30 from the base camp). Here some fixed ropes hepl you to get to the second side of the gletscher to enter the Nort wall ow DOM. Walking carefully under the seracs under the Lenspitze walls and under the Lensjoch turning right. Here the slopes get steeper, but still not difficult to get to the summit - usually a foot path is visible - in case of warm wetter it is pretty hot up there.
Descent the same route.
Summit push 6 hours, descent 4 hours

Essential Gear


glacier gear, crampons, rope 30mOK, ice axe - the glacier could be later in the summer really tricky

Miscellaneous Info


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