Normal Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.09390°N / 7.85900°E
Additional Information Route Type: Snow/glacier climb with one rock passage
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: F/PD
Sign the Climber's Log


Starting from Randa (some 7km from Zermatt), some parking spaces and train station there...
6 hours of walk to the Dom Hutte, easy walking, higher some rocky passages with fixed ropes. You can take a bed in Dom Hutte or in a base camp (15minutes above Dom hutte - 2940m) - 8 spaces for tents

Route Description

Starting aroun 3:00Am, walking the Festigletscher on its left side to a rocky passage called Festijoch (1:30 from the base camp). Here some fixed ropes hepl you to get to the second side of the gletscher to enter the Nort wall ow DOM. Walking carefully under the seracs under the Lenspitze walls and under the Lensjoch turning right. Here the slopes get steeper, but still not difficult to get to the summit - usually a foot path is visible - in case of warm wetter it is pretty hot up there.
Descent the same route.
Summit push 6 hours, descent 4 hours

Essential Gear

glacier gear, crampons, rope 30mOK, ice axe - the glacier could be later in the summer really tricky

Miscellaneous Info

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