Normal Route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.94511°N / 10.91921°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling, Via Ferrata
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA I graded Via Ferrata
Sign the Climber's Log

Normal Route for Sudlicher & Nordlicher Polleskogel

Pollesjoch (2960m)Pollesjoch
Summit View NORTHSummit view
Via FerrataVia Ferrata (I)

This Route is the Normal Route for ascending both the Sudlicher & Nordlicher Polleskogel in one Ascent.

Because of the high starting elevation (2700m), the route can be easily done in half a day, which makes it a great warm-up for some bigger mountains in the area like Wildspitze, Ramolkogel and Kreuzspitze.
The route contains a beautiful Via Ferrata (graded I, UIAA) which takes about 30 minutes to climb up. The rest of the route can be considered as alpine hiking in the difficulty grade T3. The only possible bottleneck in the route is the summit block of the Sudlicher Polleskogel. This short passage of only 5-10 minutes is a bit exposed ans somewhat more difficult compared to the rest of the route, also it contains no secured lines or whatsoever. This part is graded (UIAA) I-II.
An easy solution for the less experienced hiker is to skip Sudlicher Polleskogel and only summit Nordlicher Polleskogel. This takes away all possible difficulties.

The Normal Route over Sudlicher and Nordlicher Polleskogel is a great and easy way to climb 2 3000meter peaks in a single day and as a bonus it offers one of the best views in the Otztal Alps.
Ascending the Summit BlockAlmost at the summit of Sudlicher Polleskogel (3035m); The exposed part (I-II) is just out of sight to the right

Route Description

Climbing PolleskogelClimbing the Summit
Sign @ PollesjochSign @ Pollesjoch

Route Summary:

Difficulty: UIAA I-II (I without Sudlicher Polleskogel)
Ascent Time: 1-2 Hours
Descent Time: 1-1,5 Hours

The Normal Route starts at the end of the Glacier street. It can be seen on the map below marked in RED. This road-end contains a large parking place where parking is free of charge.
Leave the parking place in a North-West direction. (This is the only way that goes up in elevation and is marked with red-white-red stripes, it simply cannot be missed). This first part is an easy hike-up (graded T3). Following this trail eventually leads to a split-up. Going left will lead you to the Pitztaler Joch and to the Braunschweiger Hut.

Please note: This road is CLOSED because of increasing danger of falling rocks. We saw some people ignoring the closure and they got in all kinds of trouble, with rockslides coming nearer and nearer before they eventually turned back. So don't go here!!

Back to the split-up: Take a right here (follow the signs ‘’Pollesjochl’’). Shortly after the beautiful Via Ferrata starts. Graded I, it is technically easy but nonetheless very beautiful. The Via Ferrata goes up until you reach Pollesjoch at 2940m. From here you get your first sight into the Pitztal. At Pollesjoch you are now officially at the Mainzer Höhenweg. Follow the road towards the north (some secured lines), at your right hand you will see the Polleskogel. In less then 5 minutes you will arrive on the ridge (Geigenkamm) and have scpecatacular views into the Pitztal (west) and Pollestal (east.)

From this point follow the North-East ridge towards the small and rocky summit of Südlicher Polleskogel. This last part is short (10minutes), but requires some experience. It is graded I-II, but contains no secured lines or whatsoever and is a bit exposed. After this passage you will arrive on the small rocky summit.

Views from the Route:

Now descent the same way back until you are back at the ridge (Geigenkamm) again. Now follow the ridge to the North. The marked trail (Mainzer Hohenweg) goes to the left and passes the West Flanks of Nordlicher Polleskogel. Simply ignore this path and keep heading up over the ridge in a Northern direction. After some 10 minutes you arrived at the summit of Nordlicher Polleskogel. (this part is Marked in GREEN)

Descent is the same way back over the Ridge until you reach the Saddle again. Descent back to the Pollesjoch at 2950m. From here descent is the same way as you came up.( back to the Glacier Street). (This part is Marked in BLUE)
Normal ROUTE OVERVIEWRoute Overview: Red= Ascent; Green= traverse; Blue=Descent.

Essential Gear

Essential Gear for this Route is as follows:

-Good hiking/climbing shoes
-Warm clothing (it CAN be very cold above 3000 meters)
-Via Ferrata Set can be handy. It is not necessary since the Via Ferrata is not too difficult. But for a beginner it can be handy to secure yourself to the Route for safety.

Getting There

Overview MapRoad Map: Red point at the right is the start of the Glacier Road; Red point in the middle is the Start of the Route. The red point at left is the summit

Route Description:

From the West:
Vorarlberg - Tirol via Arlberg Pass or trough Arlberg Tunnel (S 16 Federal Road) - direction Landeck - change to A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden

From the North:- Bad Tölz - Achen Pass - B 181 Federal Road - Jenbach - A 12 Autobahn - Innsbruck - exit: Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden - Pfronten - Reutte - Fernpass - Imst - A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal or B 171 Federal Road to Ötztal (no Vignette toll-sticker required!) - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden - Garmisch Partenkirchen - Mittenwald - Scharnitz - Seefeld - Telfs - A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal or B 171 Federal Road to Ötztal (no Vignette toll-sticker required!) - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden

From the East:
Munich or Salzburg - A 93 Autobahn to Kufstein - A 12 Autobahn direction Innsbruck - Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden

From the South:
Merano/South Tirol - via Timmelsjoch Pass to Sölden. High Alpine road leading up to 2.500 m above sea level. The Pass is open only from the beginning of June to the middle/end of October. Toll road!

You can find a RoutePlanner here!

Soldener Glacier Road

See MAP Above: The Glacier road starts just south of the village of Solden. It is the first exit after you leave solden in a southern direction. The signs are very clear!
You have to pay an entrance fee of about 20 euro's for this road.
More info: Glacier Road

External Links

Solden & Otztal AlpsSolden

Weather Forecast Solden

Glacier road info:
Glacier Road



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