Normal Route for Sudlicher & Nordlicher Polleskogel
Pollesjoch Summit view Via Ferrata (I) Geigenkamm
This Route is the Normal Route for ascending both the Sudlicher & Nordlicher Polleskogel in one Ascent.
Because of the high starting elevation (2700m), the route can be easily done in half a day
, which makes it a great warm-up
for some bigger mountains in the area like Wildspitze
The route contains a beautiful Via Ferrata (graded I, UIAA)
which takes about 30 minutes to climb up. The rest of the route can be considered as alpine hiking
in the difficulty grade T3
. The only possible bottleneck in the route is the summit block of the Sudlicher Polleskogel. This short passage
of only 5-10 minutes is a bit exposed
ans somewhat more difficult compared to the rest of the route, also it contains no secured lines
or whatsoever. This part is graded (UIAA) I-II
An easy solution for the less experienced
hiker is to skip
Sudlicher Polleskogel and only summit Nordlicher Polleskogel. This takes away all possible difficulties.
The Normal Route
over Sudlicher and Nordlicher Polleskogel is a great and easy way to climb 2 3000meter peaks in a single day
and as a bonus it offers one of the best views in the Otztal Alps.
Almost at the summit of Sudlicher Polleskogel (3035m); The exposed part (I-II) is just out of sight to the right
Climbing the Summit Sign @ Pollesjoch
Difficulty: UIAA I-II (I without Sudlicher Polleskogel)
Ascent Time: 1-2 Hours
Descent Time: 1-1,5 Hours
The Normal Route starts at the end of the Glacier street. It can be seen on the map below marked in RED
. This road-end contains a large parking place where parking is free of charge
Leave the parking place in a North-West direction
. (This is the only way that goes up in elevation and is marked with red-white-red
stripes, it simply cannot be missed). This first part is an easy hike-up (graded T3)
. Following this trail eventually leads to a split-up. Going left will lead you to the Pitztaler Joch
and to the Braunschweiger Hut.
This road is CLOSED
because of increasing danger of falling rocks
. We saw some people ignoring the closure and they got in all kinds of trouble, with rockslides coming nearer and nearer before they eventually turned back. So don't go here!!
Back to the split-up: Take a right here (follow the signs ‘’Pollesjochl
’’). Shortly after the beautiful Via Ferrata
starts. Graded I, it is technically easy but nonetheless very beautiful. The Via Ferrata goes up until you reach Pollesjoch at 2940m
. From here you get your first sight into the Pitztal. At Pollesjoch you are now officially at the Mainzer Höhenweg
. Follow the road towards the north (some secured lines), at your right hand you will see the Polleskogel. In less then 5 minutes you will arrive on the ridge (Geigenkamm
) and have scpecatacular views into the Pitztal (west) and Pollestal (east.)
From this point follow the North-East ridge
towards the small and rocky summit of Südlicher Polleskogel
. This last part is short (10minutes), but requires some experience. It is graded I-II
, but contains no secured lines
or whatsoever and is a bit exposed
. After this passage you will arrive on the small rocky summit.
Views from the Route:
Now descent the same way back until you are back at the ridge (Geigenkamm) again. Now follow the ridge to the North
. The marked trail (Mainzer Hohenweg) goes to the left and passes the West Flanks of Nordlicher Polleskogel. Simply ignore this path and keep heading up over the ridge in a Northern direction
. After some 10 minutes you arrived at the summit of Nordlicher Polleskogel. (this part is Marked in GREEN)
Descent is the same way back over the Ridge until you reach the Saddle
again. Descent back to the Pollesjoch
at 2950m. From here descent is the same way as you came up
.( back to the Glacier Street). (This part is Marked in BLUE)
Route Overview: Red= Ascent; Green= traverse; Blue=Descent.
Essential GearEssential Gear for this Route is as follows:
-Good hiking/climbing shoes
-Warm clothing (it CAN be very cold above 3000 meters)
-Via Ferrata Set can be handy. It is not necessary since the Via Ferrata is not too difficult. But for a beginner it can be handy to secure yourself to the Route for safety.
Road Map: Red point at the right is the start of the Glacier Road; Red point in the middle is the Start of the Route. The red point at left is the summit
From the West:
Vorarlberg - Tirol via Arlberg Pass or trough Arlberg Tunnel (S 16 Federal Road) - direction Landeck - change to A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden
From the North:
- Bad Tölz - Achen Pass - B 181 Federal Road - Jenbach - A 12 Autobahn - Innsbruck - exit: Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden - Pfronten - Reutte - Fernpass - Imst - A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal or B 171 Federal Road to Ötztal (no Vignette toll-sticker required!) - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden - Garmisch Partenkirchen - Mittenwald - Scharnitz - Seefeld - Telfs - A 12 Autobahn - exit: Ötztal or B 171 Federal Road to Ötztal (no Vignette toll-sticker required!) - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden
From the East:
Munich or Salzburg - A 93 Autobahn to Kufstein - A 12 Autobahn direction Innsbruck - Ötztal - B 186 Federal Road (35 km) to Sölden
From the South:
Merano/South Tirol - via Timmelsjoch Pass to Sölden. High Alpine road leading up to 2.500 m above sea level. The Pass is open only from the beginning of June to the middle/end of October. Toll road!
You can find a RoutePlanner
Soldener Glacier Road
See MAP Above
: The Glacier road starts just south of the village of Solden. It is the first exit after you leave solden in a southern direction. The signs are very clear!
You have to pay an entrance fee of about 20 euro's for this road.
More info: Glacier Road
Weather Forecast Solden
Glacier road info: