Windy and very cloudy, didn't get to see much of the volcano rim, not technical but fun.
Climbed with Pedro in 9h return trip from the car park.
Cotopaxi is great mountain, great climb, i did enjoy every inch of climb.
The route has changed much from the route picture posted but I had to turn around at 5500 meter as I was out of gas...
Cold weather and a little wind made it a little uncomfortable, but hey, it's the mountains.
to reach the summit, but i finaly did it!
Climbed with Tilo and Katherine, both from Germany. I looked back down to Paulo PAROFES from time to time. He taught me a new Portuguese word “gostosa”.
The weather was perfect, clear sky. Our climb was lit by a bright half-moon which showed us our way to follow. I barely use my headlamp.
We got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 6:30 am, exactly five and a half hours after leaving from the refuge. Awesome views of the crater and other mountains.
Totally happy. I summited Illiniza Sur the following day. :)
Andrea (CAN) and I closed our trip in a spectacular way after a week of camping, hiking and hitch hiking through the Andes by climbing Cotopaxi (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) in just 5 hours from our camping site.
Nobody summited Cotopaxi in the last two days and we made it!!. We left our tent 10 minutes before 2 am, and passed all the climbing teams on our way up. We got to see the crater for a while.
Got back to the refuge in 1 hour 20 minutes..wow! I really enjoy this climb!! :).
Actually a variant of the normal route. The whole route changes above 5,400 m.
Climbed with Anna (RUS). We left from the refuge at 1:20 am, an hour after all of the other parties left. Very bad weather on our way up, very windy and extremelly cold.
But we enjoyed climbing up by the new route, which is completely different from the other routes I've climbed in Cotopaxi. It features very deep beautiful crevasses and huge seracs towering at both sides of the new route.
Got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 7:20 am, stayed just 5 minutes at the top and rushed ourselves down before getting blown off the mountain :)
Got back to Quito by night.
Climbed with Christine (FRA): We started at 1:30 am from the refuge. It was a warm night and the new fresh snow didn't get compacted enought. Crossed the thin large bridge crevasses before they collapse.
Got a radio call just 50 meters below the summit. I needed to leave Christine with Fausto (EC Guide) and go down to Yanasacha again (5,600 m) in order to guide Bernard up (FRA) to the summit (his guide wasn't feeling good).
Felt like climbing Cotopaxi twice. Bernard (68) and I joined the rest of the french team up at the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft). We were the only team that summited that morning.
Got back from the summit with Bernard and Michele. Bernard slipped down near the traverse below the summit. Michele and I got him.. uff!.
Once in Yanasacha platform Rafael(EC) roped up with Bernard and I did the same with Michele. It was already 11:30 am and the snow conditions were awful!.
We all had a hard time crossing the deep crevasses above 5,500 m. The ice bridges were weak and pierced by the other teams on the way down.
Crevasse crossing picture
Rafael and I fixed lines and crossed our clients to the other side of the crevasses. As I was the last to cross the bridges, I broke them in two, the last ladder felt down to the void. but it was attached by a fix rope to the lip of the crevasse.
Five minutes later we triggered an avalanch. Rafael felt a couple meters down but he self arrested on time.
The day couldn't be complete without a heavy thunderstorm. Thunder stroke a few kms away... kind of scary at times.
Got back to the refuge at 1:30 pm. What a relief.
Climbed with Darren (ENG) and Alex (ENG). It took us exactly 7 and a half hours to get to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft).
Great weather but I was getting cold due to our extremelly slow progress.
Ice bridges over the crevasses are getting weaker.
Climbed with K'Ashem girls from Guatemala (Deysi and Valesca).
Very strong girls. We got to the summit at 6:15 am. Six hours 15 minutes after leaving the refuge. The last snow fall covered completely the trail above the glacier. I started breaking trail on fresh snow.
Saw other mountains from the summit (5,897 / 19,347 ft) as well as the crater. A fun climb!
Climbed with Gary (AUS) and Mary (AUS). We have a foot of new fresh snow on the mountain. I broke trail for the first couple hours. Weather was perfect.
Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 5:30 am, right before sunrise. We could see all of the surrounding ecuadorian mountains, including Sangay erupting.
My last climb of Cotopaxi of 2009.
Climbed with Cynthia (FRA) and Gunter (AUS). We left the refuge at 1:00 am. It snowed a bit the first 3 hours. Snow/ice conditions were perfect.
Got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 6:15 am. There's a new huge and deep crevasse a few meters before reaching the summit. We took an alternative route and summited.
We could see the crater and other volcanoes to the north, south and west as well as a sea of clouds below us.
Guided Canadians Paul and Brian, (49 years old both). Left the refuge at 1:10 am.
We got to the summit at 6:15 am... beautiful sunrise and a perfect view of the mountains. We looked Sangay erupting far in the distance.
Got back to te refuge in just 1:15 hours. Great weather and ice/snow conditions.
Climbed with Boriss (ECU) and Mehmet (TUR). Long climb, we got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 7.30 am. Got sick at the summit and returning was a nightmare.
Good weather, no wind all the way up to the summit. A bit foggy at the summit but we got to see the crater, Illinizas and Ruminahui from time to time.
I got amazed to see the whole route up climbed by us before dawn... very long and crevassed, most of them very deep and large. A beautiful mountain and I'm so happy I reached the summit!.
Guided Jean Claude (FRA) and Cristel (FRA). We had great weather, startlit and windless. Left the refuge at 1:30 am and got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 6:00 am. Five and a half hours of climbing.
Crevasses are getting bigger and snowbridges thinner. We waited one hour at the summit, enjoying of the views and the sunrise. Rafael and Ivan (Ecuadorian guides) joined us later along with their four french clients.
The sun melted the snow on our way down, it made our descent harder. There was a huge avalanche by the time we reached the glacier line.
My wishes came true. I thick layer of new fresh snow covered the whole volcano and its lowlands. We all got back to the parking lot in the middle of a heavy thunderstorm.
Climbed with Andreea (ROM) and Mehmet (TUR). Left the refuge at 1:00 am. Very enjoyable climb. Ice bridges on the crevasses were very stable and compacted even though the night was warm and windless.
Got to the summit at 7:30 am along with my two completely exhausted climbing partners. The fog difted away for a while and we could see the crater and a few peaks of the western cordillera. Got back to the refuge at 10:30 am.
- Some information:
Actually this is the very first route climbed back in the day by the first climbers. This route was climbable until January 2000 when huge deep crevasses featured on the way up, stopping climbers to reach the summit.
A new route was opened soon after, we called it “La Rompe Corazones” (heartbreaker).. I wonder why? :) It usually used to take up to 3 hours of constant activity to reach the 5,500 m by an almost 50 degree slope. We climbed and guided by this route for 9 years.
- Good and bad news:
The good new is, this route (Yanasacha) was recently opened again (May 2009). A very scenic route with many resting spots and boredless. It has many nice features, huge deep crevasses, ice bridges and the view of Yanasacha (black wall) from below. A very enjoyable climb!
The bad new is, new crevasses are showing up lately, cutting our way up and forcing us to search for alternative routes. Hope the mountain will get enough snow accumulation the following years in order to keep climbing by this impressive scenic route.
Snow/ice conditions were perfect, but cloudy during the entire climb.
We couldn't even see the crater, but it was one of the best moments in my life, being up there with Andres (my brother) and a bunch of climbers and guides like Gaspar Navarrete and Gabriel Llano (+) who let us follow them up with generosity.
Gabriel Llano died years later while guiding a pitch in Cordillera Real Bolivia. It was great to share moments with him and the rest of climbers.
This was the beginning of countless trips to Cotopaxi. (My first time on Cotopaxi's top)
Easy route but the altitude and travellers sickness (unrelated) made it difficult.