Normal routes at eastside

Page Type
Route
Location:
Styria/Upper Austria/Salzburg, Austria, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Via Ferrata
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
cable B, a few minor parts UIAA -II

Route Quality: 6 Votes

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Normal routes at eastside
Created On: Mar 29, 2002
Last Edited On: Sep 18, 2006

Overview

The east ridge ("Felsensteig") and the northeast wall (Randkluftsteig) are very close, and the lower eastridge can be seen as different access to the northeast wall.

Therefore I combine here both in one description, also because sometimes people decide in front of the northeast wall crevasse to change to the east ridge (10 minute descent from northeast wall entry to east ridge entry via the glacier).

I recommend not to use the cablecar from Ramsau, but ascend from Dachsteinsuedwand hut via Hunerscharte cableroute (see approach below). It takes 4 to 5 hours from the hut to the summit (1100m height difference). From upper cablecar station it takes 1.5 to 2 hours to the summit (300m height difference).

Approach

Starting point is Dachsteinsuedwand hut (1910m), when climbing up to the glacier via Hunerscharte cableroute, or base station of Dachsteinsuedwand cablecar (1680m) if using that. From Dachsteinsuedwand hut ascending east to a crest and proceeding to a saddle, then a rocky steep slope upwards to the "untere Schwadering". On the eastside of the cirque "obere Schwadering" upwards, then left to the base of a wall. Now follow the iron handholds and cables to Hunerscharte (Huner notch). From here to the left, via Schladminger glacier, in a few minutes to the upper station of the cablecar (2685m).
From the cablecar station in 45 minutes crossing the upper parts of Hallstaetter glacier to Seethaler hut (Dachsteinwarte hut) (2740m, overnight stay only allowed in emergency cases).

Route Description

(see also this foto to get an overview of the east normal routes).

East ridge: From Dachsteinwarte hut head northwest to the base of a noticeable buttress. Entry to the rock mostly without crevasse. Via easy cracks (iron handholds and ropes have been removed at the base recently) and short ledges upwards, then to the flat ridge of the "Schulter" (shoulder). Cross it and the following steep snowfield to the left part of the northeast wall. At a small terrace leave the eastridge by following the cables (the direct eastridge starts here: no cables, UIAA III+, magnificent short and very exposed ridge climb). Follow a ledge where black overhangs form a vault over it (Mecklenburg ledge). The ledge leads you downwards to the middle part of the northeast route. It is sometimes icy, and at the end a steep and often hard snowfield must be crossed.

Northeast route (Randkluftanstieg): From Dachsteinwarte hut head northwest around the base of a noticeable buttress. Pass the entry to the east ridge and ascend over the glacier not to far away from the base of the left (eastern) wall (take care of crevasses!). Approach the end of the rock gully which comes down from the summit. Cross the crevasse at the base where it is possible (not to far away from the gully) and enter the gully. Follow the big pitons to the summit.

Essential Gear

Rope, mainly for the glacier, though you should belay unexperienced people or children also in the routes. Ice axe and crampons should be with you, though it's likely that you don't need them during summertime. A helmet is a necessity, especially if many people are above you.

Descent

Same as ascent, or via west ridge to Adamek hut (great crossing!). Often people ascend via eastridge, and climb down the northeast route, roping down over the base crevasse if necessary.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.