Page Type
Central Alps, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Ice climb - mixed
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 10 Votes

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Created On: Jan 10, 2002
Last Edited On: Jan 10, 2002


Start from Pizzini Hut, then walk on "vedretta del Gran Zebru" glacier, and start climb (3200 m) on a large coloir leading to shoulder.

Route Description

From the hut start dir NNW walking on moreines for about 1 hour.
Reach a tongue of glacier leading directly to the mountain (dir N) leaving on the right a red rocks pillar, approaching the base of a colouir x shaped coming from the shoulder on the east side of the mountain (3200 m) 1 hour.
Climb the colouir up to the shoulder 3500 m steepness upt o 45-50 deg. max., 45 min. (dir N)
From the shoulder straight to the summit climing on the side of the rocks at your left (dir NW) until an open field with less stepness (3700 m) 45 min
From the field cross climbing to N to the north side of the fiel, looking for another small colouir leading to the final ridge 3800 m steepness upt o 45-50 deg. max.
Follow the ridge (dir W) until you're on the summit.
Few rules:
1) Do climb it early, the mountains face catch the first sun, and the snow will soft soon
2) Descend early for the same reason
3) Consider carefully the presence of other teams above you and act in a way to avoid to be involved in a not nice "group slide"

Essential Gear

This may be a very serious climb (up to AD) depending on ice conditions, consider the use of:
1) difficult glacier equipment
2) helmet
3) some ice screws

Climbing attitude

1) be ready to face a steep descent often needing a good crampons technique and/or a sticky snow
2) be careful going "ensamble", and be ready to perform some length with a fixed safety points
3) consider the weather, it's difficult to get lost, it's easy to have strong wind when you need to be well balanced, lightning may be very dangerous

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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