wmolland - Aug 16, 2024 10:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2024
N-NNE Face
A totally fun, and steep, class 3-4 climb. Was happy for a couple of rappels on the way down to get around the steepest bits. A total Sierra classic.
Romain - Oct 8, 2019 11:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2019
North-Northeast Ridge
This was a long day. The route is in the shade all day in October and a recent thunderstorm had left a dusting of snow on the ledges, which slowed things down. But overall a great adventure and a magnificent peak. Trip report.
This is a beautiful peak with some fun and challenging route finding both up and down. Climbed to about 13300 with my partner Rick. We'll be back next year to finish this one off.
Team of four from camp above Finger Lake. The hardest peak I've done unroped.
Deb - Aug 27, 2017 4:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017
NNE Ridge
Incredible climb with Jim and James. Found the Class 4 chimneys to be a bit more Class 5, but perfectly comfortable and fun. Long ass day but a proud climb!
Fairweather - Oct 25, 2015 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 1985
NNE Ridge
Fun route with Jim.
Tricky descent, but not too bad.
From Finger Lake.
CameronGround - Aug 18, 2015 1:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
NNE Ridge/Face
Beautiful peak from the S Fork, and nice scramble. The routefinding provided a nice contrast to the straight blitz up Middle Pal the previous day. Although it's definitely made easier by allowing for plenty of class 4 to 4+.
Donno - Aug 12, 2013 10:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 1999
N. Face Couloir
Climbed 700' N. Couloir to the col then traversed to the top of Firebird Ridge. No time to get to summit; descended the NNE Ridge.
Superb climb- really enjoyed it. Approach isn't too long really, and the rock was pretty good. The route finding is easier if you keep in mind staying within a couple hundred feet of the ridge itself. Good continuous climb and great for a dayhike.
This was MUCH more enjoyable than Middle Palisade.
Bob Sihler - Jul 22, 2012 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2012
N-NE Face
Fun route with nearly sustained Class 3-4 climbing, plus some harder spots that we drifted onto and got through. I really enjoyed this climb, and the views were awesome.
Samantha - Sep 2, 2009 7:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
South Face
This was a fun route and a great mountain. Look forward to trying the NNE side too.
seano - Sep 5, 2008 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2008
North Northeast Ridge
10h car-to-car from South Fork, preparing for the Palisade traverse. Route-finding was tricky as advertised.
Brian Kalet - Aug 21, 2008 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008
GlennG - Jul 18, 2008 12:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006
NNE Ridge/Face
Climbed with Matthew and Rick. Matthew summarized it well below. Only bad thing about this climb was that I dropped and broke my camera. Use the lanyard!!
bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
South Face climb
Secor fools me again. His description of the 3rd class route leads to the lower peak and was closer to 4th class (especially due to wet rocks). The summit was everything I hoped for but I made the mistake of reversing Secor's directions and got cliffed twice (two additional chutes he doesn't mention). Peak #12 on JMT adventure
We used all the daylight just enough to get back to camp at finger lake. The 4th class to the base is kind of scary. Long descend. We only did 3 single rope rap plus the long rap at the end to avoid rope stuck. I found it very challenging.
Truly one of the finest peaks in Sierra mountaineering! Dayhike out of Glacier Lodge. 5 hrs there, 5 hours back. The Face was lots of fun with plenty of options to go, ranging from 3rd class to 5th class. Lots of routefinding... patience and analysis becomes a virtue on this climb. I got kind of impatient and went straight up just below the crest, making a few moves in the low to mid 5th domain. Great climb! Highly recommended!
gjonbelay - Jun 11, 2007 4:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2005
NNE Ridge in 2005
Thanks to Ron for leading me up this Sierra classic! Trip Report.
Matthew Holliman - Dec 1, 2006 4:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006
NNE Ridge/Face
Dayhiked with Glenn and Rick. We'd originally planned to climb Eagle Face (and had even more ambitious plans of traversing to Middle Pal afterwards--this was purely wishful thinking), but with three of us, just a short rope, and the intimidating appearance of the face (snow at the bottom, and it looked like we might be roped up most of the way from there), we decided to go with the easier NNE Ridge instead. That was a very enjoyable scramble in its own right, even while hauling all that useless rock gear up there.
DustysDawg - Aug 24, 2006 8:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006
Twilight Pillar
Twilight Pillar was fun. The descent sucked down the NNE face full of crappy, sandy, loose 3rd and 4th class downclimbing. A better descent would be to traverse over to Middle Pal and descend the popular class III route.
wmolland - Aug 16, 2024 10:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2024
N-NNE FaceA totally fun, and steep, class 3-4 climb. Was happy for a couple of rappels on the way down to get around the steepest bits. A total Sierra classic.
Romain - Oct 8, 2019 11:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2019
North-Northeast RidgeThis was a long day. The route is in the shade all day in October and a recent thunderstorm had left a dusting of snow on the ledges, which slowed things down. But overall a great adventure and a magnificent peak. Trip report.
WayneFry - Sep 13, 2018 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2018
NNE RidgeThis is a beautiful peak with some fun and challenging route finding both up and down. Climbed to about 13300 with my partner Rick. We'll be back next year to finish this one off.
Bill562 - Sep 3, 2018 4:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2018
NNE RidgeTeam of four from camp above Finger Lake. The hardest peak I've done unroped.
Deb - Aug 27, 2017 4:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2017
NNE RidgeIncredible climb with Jim and James. Found the Class 4 chimneys to be a bit more Class 5, but perfectly comfortable and fun. Long ass day but a proud climb!
Fairweather - Oct 25, 2015 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 1985
NNE RidgeFun route with Jim.
Tricky descent, but not too bad.
From Finger Lake.
CameronGround - Aug 18, 2015 1:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
NNE Ridge/FaceBeautiful peak from the S Fork, and nice scramble. The routefinding provided a nice contrast to the straight blitz up Middle Pal the previous day. Although it's definitely made easier by allowing for plenty of class 4 to 4+.
Donno - Aug 12, 2013 10:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 1999
N. Face CouloirClimbed 700' N. Couloir to the col then traversed to the top of Firebird Ridge. No time to get to summit; descended the NNE Ridge.
mrchad9 - Jul 25, 2012 5:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2012
NNE RidgeSuperb climb- really enjoyed it. Approach isn't too long really, and the rock was pretty good. The route finding is easier if you keep in mind staying within a couple hundred feet of the ridge itself. Good continuous climb and great for a dayhike.
This was MUCH more enjoyable than Middle Palisade.
Bob Sihler - Jul 22, 2012 11:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2012
N-NE FaceFun route with nearly sustained Class 3-4 climbing, plus some harder spots that we drifted onto and got through. I really enjoyed this climb, and the views were awesome.
Samantha - Sep 2, 2009 7:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009
South FaceThis was a fun route and a great mountain. Look forward to trying the NNE side too.
seano - Sep 5, 2008 2:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2008
North Northeast Ridge10h car-to-car from South Fork, preparing for the Palisade traverse. Route-finding was tricky as advertised.
Brian Kalet - Aug 21, 2008 11:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2008
North-northeast RidgeTrip Report
GlennG - Jul 18, 2008 12:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006
NNE Ridge/FaceClimbed with Matthew and Rick. Matthew summarized it well below. Only bad thing about this climb was that I dropped and broke my camera. Use the lanyard!!
bechtt - Aug 1, 2007 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007
South Face climbSecor fools me again. His description of the 3rd class route leads to the lower peak and was closer to 4th class (especially due to wet rocks). The summit was everything I hoped for but I made the mistake of reversing Secor's directions and got cliffed twice (two additional chutes he doesn't mention). Peak #12 on JMT adventure
tb00957 - Jul 13, 2007 1:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007
twilight pillarWe used all the daylight just enough to get back to camp at finger lake. The 4th class to the base is kind of scary. Long descend. We only did 3 single rope rap plus the long rap at the end to avoid rope stuck. I found it very challenging.
Desert Solitaire - Jul 12, 2007 9:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007
NNE Ridge/FaceTruly one of the finest peaks in Sierra mountaineering! Dayhike out of Glacier Lodge. 5 hrs there, 5 hours back. The Face was lots of fun with plenty of options to go, ranging from 3rd class to 5th class. Lots of routefinding... patience and analysis becomes a virtue on this climb. I got kind of impatient and went straight up just below the crest, making a few moves in the low to mid 5th domain. Great climb! Highly recommended!
gjonbelay - Jun 11, 2007 4:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2005
NNE Ridge in 2005Thanks to Ron for leading me up this Sierra classic!
Trip Report.
Matthew Holliman - Dec 1, 2006 4:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006
NNE Ridge/FaceDayhiked with Glenn and Rick. We'd originally planned to climb Eagle Face (and had even more ambitious plans of traversing to Middle Pal afterwards--this was purely wishful thinking), but with three of us, just a short rope, and the intimidating appearance of the face (snow at the bottom, and it looked like we might be roped up most of the way from there), we decided to go with the easier NNE Ridge instead. That was a very enjoyable scramble in its own right, even while hauling all that useless rock gear up there.
DustysDawg - Aug 24, 2006 8:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006
Twilight PillarTwilight Pillar was fun. The descent sucked down the NNE face full of crappy, sandy, loose 3rd and 4th class downclimbing. A better descent would be to traverse over to Middle Pal and descend the popular class III route.