This was a long day. The route is in the shade all day in October and a recent thunderstorm had left a dusting of snow on the ledges, which slowed things down. But overall a great adventure and a magnificent peak. Trip report.
This is a beautiful peak with some fun and challenging route finding both up and down. Climbed to about 13300 with my partner Rick. We'll be back next year to finish this one off.
Team of four from camp above Finger Lake. The hardest peak I've done unroped.
Incredible climb with Jim and James. Found the Class 4 chimneys to be a bit more Class 5, but perfectly comfortable and fun. Long ass day but a proud climb!
Fun route with Jim.
Tricky descent, but not too bad.
From Finger Lake.
Beautiful peak from the S Fork, and nice scramble. The routefinding provided a nice contrast to the straight blitz up Middle Pal the previous day. Although it's definitely made easier by allowing for plenty of class 4 to 4+.
Climbed 700' N. Couloir to the col then traversed to the top of Firebird Ridge. No time to get to summit; descended the NNE Ridge.
Superb climb- really enjoyed it. Approach isn't too long really, and the rock was pretty good. The route finding is easier if you keep in mind staying within a couple hundred feet of the ridge itself. Good continuous climb and great for a dayhike.
This was MUCH more enjoyable than Middle Palisade.
Fun route with nearly sustained Class 3-4 climbing, plus some harder spots that we drifted onto and got through. I really enjoyed this climb, and the views were awesome.
This was a fun route and a great mountain. Look forward to trying the NNE side too.
10h car-to-car from South Fork, preparing for the Palisade traverse. Route-finding was tricky as advertised.
Climbed with Matthew and Rick. Matthew summarized it well below. Only bad thing about this climb was that I dropped and broke my camera. Use the lanyard!!
Secor fools me again. His description of the 3rd class route leads to the lower peak and was closer to 4th class (especially due to wet rocks). The summit was everything I hoped for but I made the mistake of reversing Secor's directions and got cliffed twice (two additional chutes he doesn't mention). Peak #12 on JMT adventure
We used all the daylight just enough to get back to camp at finger lake. The 4th class to the base is kind of scary. Long descend. We only did 3 single rope rap plus the long rap at the end to avoid rope stuck. I found it very challenging.
Truly one of the finest peaks in Sierra mountaineering! Dayhike out of Glacier Lodge. 5 hrs there, 5 hours back. The Face was lots of fun with plenty of options to go, ranging from 3rd class to 5th class. Lots of routefinding... patience and analysis becomes a virtue on this climb. I got kind of impatient and went straight up just below the crest, making a few moves in the low to mid 5th domain. Great climb! Highly recommended!
Thanks to Ron for leading me up this Sierra classic!
Dayhiked with Glenn and Rick. We'd originally planned to climb Eagle Face (and had even more ambitious plans of traversing to Middle Pal afterwards--this was purely wishful thinking), but with three of us, just a short rope, and the intimidating appearance of the face (snow at the bottom, and it looked like we might be roped up most of the way from there), we decided to go with the easier NNE Ridge instead. That was a very enjoyable scramble in its own right, even while hauling all that useless rock gear up there.
Twilight Pillar was fun. The descent sucked down the NNE face full of crappy, sandy, loose 3rd and 4th class downclimbing. A better descent would be to traverse over to Middle Pal and descend the popular class III route.
With Dug. Good climb, I just wished the rest of the pillar was just like the first two pitches! On the other hand, simulclimbing made for fast ascent. Tiring descent via NE ridge.