Dow Williams - Jul 20, 2017 9:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017
North Arete
With Danny Urioste. Had the mountain and everything above Gem Lakes to ourselves. You can easily solo the last 5 pitches on the ridge. We down climbed from the summit as well, no reason to rap. This was an unusual snow year and in mid July we had crampons on for the entire ascent from Dade Lake. Same for the descent of course. Poles are adequate for that degree of slope, for a competent alpinist, if you do not want to bring an ax. The 5.9 variation would be 5.7-5.8 most anywhere, is short and worth doing (clean crack). We took a single rack of cams to #2, no wires, and had plenty of gear left at the belays. You can almost always sling a boulder for the belay (every belay was on a ledge). This is actually a relatively secure on sight solo if you are looking for that. In mid July, we had sun the entire route based on being at the summit at noon.
Daria - Nov 4, 2011 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011
In massive hail/snow storm
Great route-very fun moves. Completed despite massive hail/snow/wind storm.
Vitaliy M. - Sep 6, 2011 10:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011
C2C
No need to carry heavy camp, although camping in this area would be awesome too. Did it car to car after a long drive from the bay area. Started hiking at about 6:30am and hiked out part ways in the dark. Worth it. Great rock quality, and climbing. Took a 5.10 dihedral variation on 5th pitch. Too bad there are only 3 pitches 5.7 and up.
traverpen - Sep 3, 2011 11:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011
The sun beat us
Climbed slow and rapped at pitch 9 because of impending darkness. Pitches 2 and 5 were awesome. Brought pirate chicken along, but he didn't appreciate being stuffed in the pack and no longer squawks right.
SKI - Nov 16, 2010 7:51 am Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2010
The first two pitches were early in morning, so felt cold. Rest of it was warmer and great fun. The ridge (exposed class 4 in my opinion) was the best part of the climb!
rhyang - Aug 14, 2010 9:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2010
Friday the 13th !
Swapped leads with Justin on a nearly perfect summer day -- clear, not much wind, most of the route in the sun (except the crux pitch, of course :)
We belayed seven pitches, more or less as per supertopo. I led pitches 1, 2, 5 and 7. The exposure on the upper part of the ridge was fantastic, of course. We rappelled from slings near the summit block.
Brought a spare notebook for the summit register, but it seemed to be missing (it was not where I saw it the last two times I climbed BCS via the NE Ridge).
Spent the night before and after at Dade Lake -- great views of the Perseid meteor shower !
With Jascha. Did a 5.9? variation on P2 to the left of the main route starting from the belay and the 5.10 variation on P5 noted in Supertopo. Bailed where the route joins the NE Ridge due to threatening t-storms overhead.
A pretty manageable day from the trailhead with John Reyher in the early '90s I think. We simulclimbed after the wide 5.8 pitch, passing another party en route.
salad - Aug 4, 2008 2:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008
North Aretre
Fine day with Mike Skaug. I believe we were the only ones the spire all day.
bighornmonkey - Feb 14, 2008 12:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
Done...
Did this climb car to car in one long day. Met some friends at the top who ascended the east rib. Spectacular route!
Soloed this to break in a pair of new approach shoes (It worked: they broke; rock shoes might have been better). Climbed the route in 90 minutes. Eight hours car to car.
Vertigo soul - Aug 13, 2007 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007
North Arete
Great climb! My first multi-pitch rock climb, believe it or not. After watching me the two days prior, my guide thought I could handle it. Learned a tone on this climb, which will definitely not be my last! Look forward to getting back.
forjan - Jul 30, 2007 3:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
North Arete
Swaped leads with Gibran. We belayed pitches 1, 2 & 5 as per Supertopo and simul/solo the rest. Very fun climb! I spent almost 1/2 hr taking out one of Gibran's #0 TCU's. Somewhat cloudy but no wind at the summit. We stayed up there 40 minutes (~ 13 hrs car-to-car).
Dow Williams - Jul 20, 2017 9:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017
North AreteWith Danny Urioste. Had the mountain and everything above Gem Lakes to ourselves. You can easily solo the last 5 pitches on the ridge. We down climbed from the summit as well, no reason to rap. This was an unusual snow year and in mid July we had crampons on for the entire ascent from Dade Lake. Same for the descent of course. Poles are adequate for that degree of slope, for a competent alpinist, if you do not want to bring an ax. The 5.9 variation would be 5.7-5.8 most anywhere, is short and worth doing (clean crack). We took a single rack of cams to #2, no wires, and had plenty of gear left at the belays. You can almost always sling a boulder for the belay (every belay was on a ledge). This is actually a relatively secure on sight solo if you are looking for that. In mid July, we had sun the entire route based on being at the summit at noon.
Daria - Nov 4, 2011 9:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011
In massive hail/snow stormGreat route-very fun moves. Completed despite massive hail/snow/wind storm.
Vitaliy M. - Sep 6, 2011 10:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011
C2CNo need to carry heavy camp, although camping in this area would be awesome too. Did it car to car after a long drive from the bay area. Started hiking at about 6:30am and hiked out part ways in the dark. Worth it. Great rock quality, and climbing. Took a 5.10 dihedral variation on 5th pitch. Too bad there are only 3 pitches 5.7 and up.
traverpen - Sep 3, 2011 11:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2011
The sun beat usClimbed slow and rapped at pitch 9 because of impending darkness. Pitches 2 and 5 were awesome. Brought pirate chicken along, but he didn't appreciate being stuffed in the pack and no longer squawks right.
SKI - Nov 16, 2010 7:51 am Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2010
No Go!Will be back to finish you next summer.
pratyush - Sep 26, 2010 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010
Fun climb!The first two pitches were early in morning, so felt cold. Rest of it was warmer and great fun. The ridge (exposed class 4 in my opinion) was the best part of the climb!
rhyang - Aug 14, 2010 9:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2010
Friday the 13th !Swapped leads with Justin on a nearly perfect summer day -- clear, not much wind, most of the route in the sun (except the crux pitch, of course :)
We belayed seven pitches, more or less as per supertopo. I led pitches 1, 2, 5 and 7. The exposure on the upper part of the ridge was fantastic, of course. We rappelled from slings near the summit block.
Brought a spare notebook for the summit register, but it seemed to be missing (it was not where I saw it the last two times I climbed BCS via the NE Ridge).
Spent the night before and after at Dade Lake -- great views of the Perseid meteor shower !
fossana - Jul 25, 2010 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010
n arete modifiedWith Jascha. Did a 5.9? variation on P2 to the left of the main route starting from the belay and the 5.10 variation on P5 noted in Supertopo. Bailed where the route joins the NE Ridge due to threatening t-storms overhead.
fatdad - Sep 12, 2008 4:19 pm
A fine day out.A pretty manageable day from the trailhead with John Reyher in the early '90s I think. We simulclimbed after the wide 5.8 pitch, passing another party en route.
salad - Aug 4, 2008 2:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008
North AretreFine day with Mike Skaug. I believe we were the only ones the spire all day.
bighornmonkey - Feb 14, 2008 12:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007
Done...Did this climb car to car in one long day. Met some friends at the top who ascended the east rib. Spectacular route!
MichaelJ - Sep 9, 2007 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007
Is this really 5.8?Soloed this to break in a pair of new approach shoes (It worked: they broke; rock shoes might have been better). Climbed the route in 90 minutes. Eight hours car to car.
Vertigo soul - Aug 13, 2007 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007
North AreteGreat climb! My first multi-pitch rock climb, believe it or not. After watching me the two days prior, my guide thought I could handle it. Learned a tone on this climb, which will definitely not be my last! Look forward to getting back.
forjan - Jul 30, 2007 3:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
North AreteSwaped leads with Gibran. We belayed pitches 1, 2 & 5 as per Supertopo and simul/solo the rest. Very fun climb! I spent almost 1/2 hr taking out one of Gibran's #0 TCU's. Somewhat cloudy but no wind at the summit. We stayed up there 40 minutes (~ 13 hrs car-to-car).
fossana - Apr 9, 2007 12:44 am
N AreteSep ?, 1995
Flex - Jan 13, 2007 5:13 am
fun route Aug/03This one was extra fun 'cause I got to lead all the pitches while my partner carried the pack!
Deb - Dec 4, 2006 8:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005
North AreteCold, wind, altitude woes....? I did NOT enjoy this climb but am proud to have completed it!
stoneman5 - Sep 10, 2006 12:19 am Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2001
9-11did this two days after 9-11. no planes in the sky and sadness are the memories of this climb.