North Buttress - East Couloir

Page Type
Idaho, United States, South America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Most of a day
Class 2/3

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North Buttress - East Couloir
Created On: Jan 6, 2006
Last Edited On: Jan 6, 2006


Follow the directions in the Getting There section to reach Twin Lakes Basin. In this basin the trail will go directly to Upper Twin Lake and then continue south to Hard Butte Lake. The trail will continue to the southeast corner of the lake where it ends at the base of the north buttress of Hard Butte.

Route Description

From the southeast corner of the lake look southeast or up and to the left to see an obvious chute that spills from the top of the buttress to the talus in front of you (there is a larger more pronounced chute to the right of where the trail ends that is different route). Climb the talus to the chute and then ascend it to the top where there is a forest of twisted and stunted trees on a much gentler slope. Continue straight up to the open basin above. Here a faint east to west trail will soon appear. This trail can be followed to the top or if it is snow covered and hard to follow just turn right (west) to the main ridgeline. The ridge can be followed south to the summit, but it is very irregular and rugged so a better way is to side hill on the talus just below the solid rock.

Essential Gear

Good hiking boots are all that is required. An ice axe and crampons are recommended for a spring or early summer attempt when snow will be present.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.