North Couloir #1 (Main Eastern)

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Snow climb.
Time Required:
One to two days
Class 3 snow climb.

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North Couloir #1 (Main Eastern)
Created On: Apr 25, 2005
Last Edited On: Jul 24, 2005


Follow the directions on the page for Jepson Peak to get to the bowl. There are approximately 5 distinguishable couloirs within the Jepson Bowl varying in width, length and steepness. There are 3 that stand out as the largest. The steepest being (seemingly) the westernmost. The route discussed here is the prominant couloir immediately to the right (west of the summit. Enter couloir from the base of the bowl.

Route Description

This variation is approximately 1,000ft of 30 to 45 degree class three snow climb (due to varying snow conditions, could be avalanche prone in the right conditions as well). In addition, the steepness varies depending on where you are at in the couloir (right or left side, or in the middle) and could get up to approximately 50 degrees. Return route can be a clean glissade down the bowl (in the right conditions) or one of the ridges (which are a little more rocky).

Essential Gear

Since conditions can vary on this route with the time of year and the snowfall etc., there could potentially be a long list of gear. If there is snow then helmet, an ice axe and crampons are essential. At the right time of year you may bring snow pro as well. Depending on weather you may want to bring wands to mark your route and snow shoes for the approach. Winds can be high and temperatures low so winter clothing becomes neccesary. Don't forget a stove to melt snow for water and maybe a shovel for a kitchen.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.