North Couloir aka Feather Couloir

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
ice climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Class 4 - 5, AI2, WI3

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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North Couloir aka Feather Couloir
Created On: Sep 27, 2002
Last Edited On: Sep 27, 2002


From the upper Royce Lake, the couloir is right of ( and hidden behind ) the North Face. Hike up the drainage from the lake. The route is obvious.

Route Description

The ice gully has no bershrund to speak of and is easily entered. The left side can be climbed ( steeper ) as can the right side ( easier ). Rock belays are easily established. This gully is 700' and up to 60 degrees. From it's top turn left and climb class 3 - 4 rock for 70' to the gentle summit ridge.

Descent - down climb class 2 - 3 ledges and scree on the southeast slope. Climb a nasty sand cone to the notch between Feather Peak and Mount Royce. Downclimb a 35 degree ice gully back to upper Royce Lake.

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, helmet, rope and a light rock / ice rack.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.