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7954 Hits
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72.07% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.32600°N / 118.777°W |
Route Type:
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ice climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Class 4 - 5, AI2, WI3 |
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Approach
From the upper Royce Lake, the couloir is right of ( and hidden behind ) the North Face. Hike up the drainage from the lake. The route is obvious.
Route Description
The ice gully has no bershrund to speak of and is easily entered. The left side can be climbed ( steeper ) as can the right side ( easier ). Rock belays are easily established. This gully is 700' and up to 60 degrees. From it's top turn left and climb class 3 - 4 rock for 70' to the gentle summit ridge.
Descent - down climb class 2 - 3 ledges and scree on the southeast slope. Climb a nasty sand cone to the notch between Feather Peak and Mount Royce. Downclimb a 35 degree ice gully back to upper Royce Lake.
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Essential Gear
Ice tools, crampons, helmet, rope and a light rock / ice rack.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.