North Couloir Direct

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.27060°N / 118.6728°W
Additional Information Route Type: Ice climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: III, AI2 or WI3
Sign the Climber's Log


From the McGee Creek trailhead, hike up the trail along the North Fork of McGee Creek to Longley Reservoir ( camping spots ). Climb the huge moraine to the glacier below Mount Humphreys North Face.

Route Description

Cross the bershrund and ascend the main couloir straight up for about 900' to the main Sierra crest on the Northwest Ridge. This provides excellent ice climbing up to 60 degrees. Belays can be established on the sides of the gully. From the top of the gully, follow the class 4 Northwest Face route to the summit.
To descend, follow the Sierra Crest north ( class 2 - 3 ) until you can drop down class 2 slopes back to Longley Reservoir.

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, helmet, rope, a light rock rack and a few ice screws.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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