North Couloir

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock and ice
Time Required:
Half a day
III, 5.5, AI2

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North Couloir
Created On: Sep 30, 2002
Last Edited On: Oct 1, 2002


From Bishop, Ca., take highway 168 west to the lake Sabrina trailhead. Follow the trail up Bishop Creek to Sailor Lake. Cross country hiking from Sailor Lake takes one past Moonlight Lake to Echo Lake. The Clyde Spires are directly in front of you!
The maps for this area are the Mt. Darwin and mt. Thompson 7.5 minute USGS quadranges.

Route Description

The ice gully is obvious. We climbed the right side, finding is somewhat protected from rock fall compared to the left side. Climb 600' of 45 degree ice, then climb up and left for 2 pitches of mixed rock and ice ( varies due to the amount of snowfall that year ) to the summit ridge. To descend, head North on the Sierra crest toward Mount Wallace, then head down class 2 slopes back to Echo Lake.
Although the High Sierra guidebook rated this as 5.7, we didn't find it harder than 5.5. However, there may be more than one way to go once on the mixed climbing!

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, a rope, helmet and a light rock rack is recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

North Couloir

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