North Couloir

Page Type
Route
Location:
Colorado, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Skiing
Season:
Spring
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Very Steep Snow

Route Quality: 1 Votes

650 Hits
71.64% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
North Couloir
Created On: Aug 1, 2014
Last Edited On: Aug 3, 2014

Overview

This is a classic snow climb on the north face of Anderson Peak, offering 1200 feet of continuously steep snow, up to 60 degrees. The route is in condition* starting mid-late June (we found ideal conditions 06/27/14).

Anderson Peak north face
Anderson Peak north face

Approach

As for Anderson Lake. The North Couloir** is the longest and most direct line on the north face and can be seen from the lake.

Route Description

Climb the apron, which steepens immediately to 45+ degrees. Above the apron, enter the choke and hug the left wall on 60+ degree snow. Continue climbing 45-55 degree snow. There is a spur on the left which goes even more directly to the summit and contains some ice that looks WI3+. Check it out if you're a hardman (or have gear), otherwise continue straight up. Approaching the ridge, the angle again reaches 60+ degrees, and passing the cornice may require a hard move. Gain the ridge and go east to the summit.

Anderson Peak North Couloir route
red = North Couloir
yellow = North Couloir Direct

Essential Gear

Mountaineering axe, sturdy boots, crampons. A second tool is recommended.

Notes

* hard packed snow when climbed around sunrise.

** this couloir needs a name! If you know it, please let me know!

style="display:block"
data-ad-format="autorelaxed"
data-ad-client="ca-pub-6523272176520096"
data-ad-slot="7132222476">