The bergschrund was exhilirating...required crossing a dicey snow bridge followed by liebacking on rock. Snow was melted out on the "left fork" so our party climbed very high on the right fork and traversed across some exposed class 3 ledges. Ran out of time with storm coming, so we descended and rapped the bergschrund in the rain. Next time!
#4: September 5-7, 2009 - via N Couloir with Jonathan Bye and Henry Steinberg. Bergschrund was a challenging brittle water ice on alpine ice climb, but a memorable lead. We then took the 'NW Buttress' to the top. Took longer than expected due to the ice and my friends decided they didn't like the idea of sleeping on the ridge, so we bailed down the SW Chute #1 after finishing the route. Doh!
#5: June 19-21, 2010 - Made it to the summit block with Steph Abegg on our attempt at the Palisade Traverse. It was a straightforward snow climb and the bergshchrund barely warranted a glance. We accidentally took the right fork, which added a lot to the time necessary to reach the summit block. Steph and I were running late and couldn't get the rope on the summit block any better than slinging a bolt pin during our agreed 10 minute time limit, so we had to move on. I'll be back for the summit block another day!