North east side and East wall

Page Type
Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Ice/mixed climb
Time Required:
One to two days

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Feb 22, 2004
Last Edited On: Feb 22, 2004


The Valnontey valley is a wonderful and the high part of her is very spectacular and isolate. The solitude and the wilderness are characteristic of this route. The Tsasser glacier is beautiful and across it you can see very well the Herbetet south wall.

First ascension

W. A. B. Coolidge and G. Yeld with Chr. Alner Jr and S. Henry in 1885


From Aosta take the road to Curmaiyor. After a few km go to left to Aymaivilles-Cogne and enter in Cogne Valley. Guide until to Cogne and than take the road to Valnontey. You arrive to a big parking, park you car here.

Route Description

To Valnontey 1668 m take a wanted trail to Leonessa hut (2930 m) and arrive in 4 h.

To the hut go to the left and arrive to the moraine of Tsasset glacier. Climb it and go to the glacier. Many crevasses. Now you across the glacier even to Montandyne east wall. Climb the snow couloir, 150 m 40° and arrive on the north ridge to a few metres to the summit

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe

North east side and East wall

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