North Face - Comici

Interesting fixed gear on Comici route (north face of Cima Grande)...a wooden piton or cuneo (wedge; thanks Gabriele!) (Sept. 2008).

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Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Oct 15, 2008 4:52 am - Voted 10/10

we used

to name it "cuneo" (wedge)
these kind of gear was very useful in wide cracks before the invention of nuts and friends
the only problem was that once fixed we couldn't take them off
sometimes we used to double them with another one or with an iron piton

rpc

rpc - Oct 15, 2008 12:19 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: we used

Hi Gabriele,
I've seen such fixed wooden protection on a few routes here in the US as well - mainly it was on very wide cracks. Always fun to see "old days" approach :) Fun stuff! I will add the term you mention to the caption. Many thanks for checking these out!
Radek

Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Oct 15, 2008 12:35 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: we used

There's another "old days" approach that has been forgotten : sometimes we also used to put strings in the cracks jamming them with some small stones we carried in our pockets (picked up at the starting point) ...

rpc

rpc - Oct 15, 2008 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: we used

Gabriele, some of those placements are can still be found (OR they withstood the test of time from the older days :)

http://www.summitpost.org/image/452986/152400/east-face-steger.html

Cheers!

Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Oct 15, 2008 3:38 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: we used

oops :(
I didn't give a look to that photo ...

Diggler

Diggler - Nov 13, 2008 2:44 pm - Hasn't voted

looks bomber!

The cord is spectra too, right? Brings to mind the phrase 'The leader must not fall.' ha ha

rpc

rpc - Nov 13, 2008 4:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks bomber!

:) yeah great stuff! That route had very many pins on the hard stuff so you'd never really pull all of them out...but you might travel some distance before stopping though. Thanks for visiting Dirk.

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