North Face, Direct Finish, 5.8, IV Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 1, 2022 9:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2022

North Face of the Grand Teton  Sucess!

With Brad from Laramie. Climbed the Full Exum, North Ridge and North Face routes for three summits of the Grand Teton within 10 days, in an attempt to complete the 50 North American Classics as I near 60. I gave it 3 out of 5 stars. The Black Dike Traverse back to the bivy was the crux and not recommended in late July. The direct finish via the Pendulum and Slab pitches offered the only real climbing of the day. The Guano Chimney is a mess, but easy climbing. Some of the pitches were wet in late July. You definitely need boots, crampons and alpine ax in late July to get up the glacier and final snow above the bergschrund to reach the rock. If you want to do the direct finish, most will prefer climbing shoes. We simul climbed quite a bit, it all goes fast, but route finding is at a premium.

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