North Face in 1920 - the Gugliermina Picture

North Face in 1920 - the Gugliermina Picture

This is the famous "Gugliermina Picture" of the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses, taken by the Gugliermina brothers (two italian climbers / photograpers who were very active in the NW Alps for almost 60 years) in summer 1920. It is likely that the small figure on the L is none other than Francesco Ravelli, Gugliermina closest friend and longtime climbing companion - and first climber of the Hirondelles ridge. This picture has another distinction - it's the "postcard" Vittorio Varale sent to Riccardo Cassin, telling him that the spur on the L was a route he could take a look on. The rest is history - Cassin, together with climbing mates Luigi "Gino" Esposito and Ugo Tizzoni, climbed the spur between August 4th and 6th 1938. It was the third, and by far the best of the three "last problems" of the Alps - the north faces of Matterhorn, Eiger and Grandes Jorasses. (source: archive CAI National Mountain Museum in Turin - Italy)
signorellil
on Aug 8, 2009 3:37 pm
Image ID: 538487

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