North Face Route

Page Type
Ecuador, South America
Route Type:
rock and a sand walk! May have some ice and snow
Time Required:
Half a day
5.3, 70 degrees

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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North Face Route
Created On: Jan 5, 2003
Last Edited On: Jan 5, 2003


After La Virgen, go towards the Nuevos Horizontes Hut. Before reaching the final moraine go right and down to the small creek, and then up to join a path that will take you accross the north face of the mountain.

Route Description

The first part of the route is pure scree and sand climbing. After you cross the little creek, go up and then join a path that traverses the mountain across sand and rock fields (45 degrees). There are about 4 huge rocks with cairns and will guide you across. This path will take you to the upper end of the north side summit ridge. Once you reach this end of the summit ridge, follow it south (left), looking for a gully on your right, leading to the summit. This gully implies a 5.3 climb, it is in reality few moves at this level. The gully actually takes you to the summit winding to the left, although some more direct climbs can be done.

The summit, small and rocky, has a cross and, if you are lucky, good views of El Corazon and the north face of Iliniza Sur.

Descent can be done via this Route or the Normal Route on the south face of the mountain. The later option will take you directly to the Nuevos Horizontes Hut (4750mt)

Essential Gear

Good hiking boots and weather protection AND A HELMET! There is a risk of rock fall, mainly if there are other climbers above you. The climb can be covered with snow and ice, in which case crampons and ice axe can be necessary, ask locally for conditions. Also, depending on the skill of the climbers, a rope and rock protection may be necessary, but keep in mind that there are less than 5 or 6 5.3 moves, so the extra gear may just be a extra weigth.

Miscellaneous Info

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North Face Route

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