North Face (Swiss Route)

North Face (Swiss Route)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.92790°N / 7.00090°E
Additional Information Route Type: Tecnical Rock and Ice Climb
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: TD-, seriousness IV, 800m, 54º (average angle) with pitches of Scotitsh 3 and 4 (65º - 70º)
Sign the Climber's Log


See Approach to the huts in the MAIN PAGE.

Route Description

The North face is between the central spur (left) and the NNW spur (right). The slope is not regular, neither it is sprinkled with rocky outcrops and ribs that lead to gullies' bottlenecks. It's wide enough to hold 2 routes with different posibilities of connections between them and some variants. Direct Swiss route goes along the right side of the face, where the snow slopes are continous. It's the nicest and more difficult route on N face. First summited by C. Cornaz and R. Mathey on July, 31st 1938.

From refuge d'Argentière cross Glacier d'Argentière towards the low part of the gully. Traverse the bergschrund (3.050 m) and ascend towards the gully bottleneck on the upper section of the first third. This is the steeper part, possibly cross by the icy rocks on the left side of the gully. Then, it widen and the slope is less steep. The upper last third can be climbed directly towards the summit or turnnig to the right side where a snow arête is upon the NNW spur.

Essential Gear

Gear: ice axe, hammer axe, ice crampons, karabiners, ice screws, pegs, abseiling devices, ropes, and all other gear for a high-technical rock and ice (mainly) climb.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-2 of 2

UlrichPrinz - Aug 4, 2002 1:50 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Hi Diego,

I know I had this wrong on the Main Page,
which you have probably taken as input.
I was mislead by the "Neige-Glace-Mixte" gradings.
In Eberlein and other books, the route is:

TD-, 800m, Seriousness IV

It would be nice if you could change that in
your Header-Info and delete this comment
here. (Would have sent you an email, but it
is 'private')

Thanks, Ulli

Diego Sahagún

Diego Sahagún - Aug 4, 2002 10:22 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

"Mont Blanc Massif" Volume II by Lindsay Griffin grade North Face (Swiss Route) as TD-, 800 m, 54 º (average angle) with pitches of Scottish 3 and 4 (65º - 70º). Let me maintain my private e-mail, danke.

Viewing: 1-2 of 2



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