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9264 Hits
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74.01% Score
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4 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.92790°N / 7.00090°E |
Route Type:
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Tecnical Rock and Ice Climb |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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TD-, seriousness IV, 800m, 54º (average angle) with pitches of Scotitsh 3 and 4 (65º - 70º) |
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Approach
See Approach to the huts in the MAIN PAGE.
Route Description
The North face is between the central spur (left) and the NNW spur (right). The slope is not regular, neither it is sprinkled with rocky outcrops and ribs that lead to gullies' bottlenecks. It's wide enough to hold 2 routes with different posibilities of connections between them and some variants. Direct Swiss route goes along the right side of the face, where the snow slopes are continous. It's the nicest and more difficult route on N face. First summited by C. Cornaz and R. Mathey on July, 31st 1938.
From refuge d'Argentière cross Glacier d'Argentière towards the low part of the gully. Traverse the bergschrund (3.050 m) and ascend towards the gully bottleneck on the upper section of the first third. This is the steeper part, possibly cross by the icy rocks on the left side of the gully. Then, it widen and the slope is less steep. The upper last third can be climbed directly towards the summit or turnnig to the right side where a snow arête is upon the NNW spur.
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Essential Gear
Gear: ice axe, hammer axe, ice crampons, karabiners, ice screws, pegs, abseiling devices, ropes, and all other gear for a high-technical rock and ice (mainly) climb.
UlrichPrinz - Aug 4, 2002 1:50 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHi Diego,
I know I had this wrong on the Main Page,
which you have probably taken as input.
I was mislead by the "Neige-Glace-Mixte" gradings.
In Eberlein and other books, the route is:
TD-, 800m, Seriousness IV
It would be nice if you could change that in
your Header-Info and delete this comment
here. (Would have sent you an email, but it
is 'private')
Thanks, Ulli
Diego Sahagún - Aug 4, 2002 10:22 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment"Mont Blanc Massif" Volume II by Lindsay Griffin grade North Face (Swiss Route) as TD-, 800 m, 54 º (average angle) with pitches of Scottish 3 and 4 (65º - 70º). Let me maintain my private e-mail, danke.