North Face

Page Type
Route
Location:
Haute-Savoie/Aosta (Mont Blanc), France/Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Ice
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
AD+ to D-

Route Quality: 7 Votes

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76.66% Score
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North Face
Created On: Nov 26, 2001
Last Edited On: Jan 31, 2002

Approach


Start at the Torino cabine, going to the base of the North Face (1 to 1,5 hours). Also possible from the Refuge des Cosmiques but his leaves you with a far more longer approach.

Route Description


The North Face is about 400 m high (10 to 12 pitches) with ice continuously up to 60° with an avarage of 52°.
In the middle the face narrows to an icy couloir and then opens again for the upper slopes. It is here that it steepens up to 60°.
It is best to stay at the right side close to the rocks to get good belay's.
The summit is normally reached by going left of the rocks and joining the normal route over the south-east ridge. it is however also possible to climb directly to the top (on rock, IV, 30 m).

Essential Gear


Crampons, 2 ice axes, rope,several ice-screws and other safety equipement

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-5 of 5

Ari

Ari - Feb 11, 2002 12:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Face Nord de la tour Ronde

Ari

Ari - Feb 11, 2002 10:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Further routes on North Face:


1) Voie Buscaini (Tour Ronde NF) D (II)


Height: 350 m


FA: G. Buscaini, 19.8.1959


2) Crampon Futé (Tour Ronde NF) D (II)


Height: 350 m


3) Couloir Decors-Perroux (Tour Ronde NF) II, 2


Height: 350m


FA: P. Decorps and G. Perroux, 1.12.1978





References:


1) Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif, vol I. Alpine Club 1996. ISBN: 0-900523-57-3. pp 132 #273.


2) Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont-Blanc-Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Klettere. Bergverlag Rodulf Rother, 2000. ISBN: 3-7633-2414-3. #455.


3) Gaston Rebuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif : The 100 Finest Routes. The Mountaineers Books, 1996. ISBN: 0898864771. #35.

Ari

Ari - Apr 6, 2002 6:03 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Laroche Jean-Louis & Lelong Florence: Die Gipfel des Montblanc - die schönsten Routen in allen Schwierigkeiten. BLV Verlaggesellschaft mbH, 1999. ISBN: 3-405-15693-9. #41.

sbumbolo - Jun 5, 2006 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Interesting Route's details

I did it with Bruno Arrigo and alpine guide Corrado Gonthier on June 2nd 2006. Because of the snowy conditions, we did the approach skiing from Rif. Torino and climbed with ski touring shoes. Overall duration : 5h Rif. to Rif.

We’d make the first belay (sling on rock) just before the icy couloir and the second just after the icy couloir (you’ll find two nails on your right at the exit of the couloir. Aniway don’t trust too much on these two nails). Once in the couloir, we’d kept the right side because the ice was better.

Corrado put one ice-screw in the couloir (with Tbloc) and slings on rocks with Tbloc on the upper slopes (eg : two for the crossing at the end of the upper slopes).

paulbracey

paulbracey - Aug 3, 2014 8:50 am - Voted 9/10

Awesome Route!

We climbed this route the last week of June, 2014, hiking in from the Torino hut. We found that a couple of pickets were handy and made the passage through the bergschrund a bit safer with all that rotten snow to get up through. The pickets didn't get used after that, but ice screws were handy. The climbing was never difficult, but it is a pretty long way up - 8 pitches (if we counted them correctly) - and fairly exhausting. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with the descent route (the normal route on the East Face) as it is not readily apparent and may take some poking around to be sure you're going to end up where you expect. It really is a spectacular climb. Highly recommended!



Cheers!

Viewing: 1-5 of 5